Australian windmill information

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The book "The Australian windmills offsider" contains information gathered up over 40 years by the author.The book is a must for anyone wanting to know more about;what must be one of the best known icons of the Australian bush.Always available from the author...thank you.

WORTH KNOWING ABOUT WINDMILLS

The Windmill... .

The windmill turns no more - It hangs its head in sorrow.

Its workings all worn out from time - and rusted. The wind still comes - But silent now.

There is no need to rant and rave. There,s nothing left, to turn inside out!

Just a windmill—Alone in its grief.

A rusting broken tank, its companion........

Written about 140 miles north of Alice Springs 1972 Don McDouall

Whereas the windmill tower in the USA has often been constructed from timber, and just as often mounted on the roof of a building, here in Australia such a structure would be rare. The common tower seen in Australia is fabricated from galvanized angle iron, and is nearly always bolted together, it is seen in a three or four legged configuration tapering as it goes up, the taper really is there only to give clearance to the `Mill head` or the blade wheel and the tail `Vane` The actual `Mill` consists of the `blade wheel` which can be anything from 6ft diameter to about 36 ft diameter, this wheel is fastened to the drive shaft; the drive shaft in turn rotates gears, that turn rotary action into reciprocating action…. So as the wheel turns the pump drive shaft goes up and down. The Mill can be direct drive or it can have reduction gears fitted. At the rear is fastened the `Tail vane` which is the shut off mechanism , it pulls the wind wheel into and out of the wind. The gearbox contains most of the moving parts, which are oil lubricated. The Water pumping mill is nearly always the so called Multi-blade type, this means it has many wind blades, the number can vary from about 11 blades to about 36 blades. A rule of thumb guide is…. The more blades the slower the wheel will turn, but to start the wheel turning a lighter wind is needed. So at one extreme you might see a windmill with few blades turning at 50 rpm, yet in the same wind a wheel with many blades might only turn at 20 rpm. The “few bladed” mills are used with gearing and utilised where there is plenty of wind and multi blade mills are often used without gearing and in light wind situations…. Of course there are exceptions and the big multi blades are used when a lot of output is required, as pumping from deep bores, and can be seen as direct or geared down models. Note also that work related output is related to the wheels diameter. Each blade is set at an angle of between 11 degrees and 15 degrees within the wheel, they are most often fabricated from galvanized sheet metal, and shaped with a curvature and tapered, the taper is not really of help as far as efficiency ….. In the event you want to regain the curvature ,[on a damaged blade or fabricating a new one] just remember a 200 lt [44gln] drum has much the same curvature. The blades are riveted to stays or bolted on…such stays are made from galvanized mild steel, earlier ones from wrought iron. The other parts of the mill head are usually cast iron . Early [up until about 1950] bearings were nearly always plain, therefore Babbitt and brass. Roller and ball bearings are often used in later models. And it is possible to re machine an old mill and fit modern bearings.

The above sketch is a very early Chinese windmill... note the wall to contain the wind?

The common windmills seen in Australia are in most cases made by local manufacturers … such as companies like. Southern Cross…Metters…Alston…Cyclone…Comet…Aemotor [the latter being an American mill]Many later mills have different names, but are manufactured by one of the firms above. But all such windmills were copied originally from the American pattern,But differ in many ways to suit Australian conditions..

There are many old windmills in Australia that go back to the mid 1850`s, but very few of these would still be working, many can be resurrected with a little effort . ...Anders of SA made windmills around 1870? The company Griffiths was making windmills in Queensland at about the same time.

[later Griffiths became the Southern Cross company] Another old mill that can be located was the `Everlasting` and also there was a `Danks` mill.

A common mill within the USA in times gone by was the `Samson`…. Manufactured by the Stover company, some may have found their way into Australia.

The above sketch show a very early windmill driving what looks to me like an organ? One will never know if it actually worked

Australian windmills are built for reliability, but in most cases are poorly engineered in the sense that they are difficult to erect, just as hard to dismantle and frustrating, and at times dangerous to repair and maintain….. This in most cases stems I think from the old `Oz Macho` image as much as anything else. Over my 40 odd years of association with windmills I found this the case very often…. You were deemed a bit of a sissy to don a safety belt….Something was wrong with you if you couldnt stand aloft on a rotating windmill without holding on? Sort of belongs to the days when a tractor seat was a slab of contoured steel, and to even put a bag on it [the seat that is] for comfort was thought to be somewhat un-mannish. Sadly whereas Tractors and Headers have kept up with the modern times, the farm windmill has not. Here is a list of very obvious faults found on nearly all windmills used in Australia, and the possible remedies. • Windmill erection…. The methods depend on what the erecter has available, therefore it is not hard to erect a windmill if you have a high lift crane, or a hoist system like a cherry picker and plenty of willing hands, but in real not many have access to such equipment . So most windmills are erected using the gin pole system, which is fraught with danger, and near impossible for a one man operation to carry out in a safe manner. But with just a little thought the erection work can be done safely. . • First assemble the mill on a `frame`, [ see the sketch section further into this book.]…whereby the base of the tower is resting on the ground, and when the blades have been fixed to the head wheel they are just clear of the ground….. and so the windmill assembled is laying at say a 30 degree angle to the ground. . • Start with the bottom tower section , bolting the whole section together, making sure it is aligned and true to itself… then securely brace it… (use temporary bracing if you must) . • Now you have something to use as a reference point when assembling the rest and you also have the tower “footprint “ for working out the measurements of the tower base.

Fix the footings to the ground with a good type of concrete or some other method so the footings are held secure. The holes in the ground need to be belled and at least a metre in depth. Then fit the tower base [ a part most manufacturers never supply) Next fasten a strong set of hinges to two legs on a four leg and two also on a three leg tower.. The mill can then be pulled into a vertical position by a winch or even with a vehicle if care is taken, using a second vehicle behind so as to act as a brake…. See the illustrations further along. . • Another method that is more suited to a one man operation, and is much easier controlled is to use the ` third leg` system, to pull the mast up with a winch, this method is also the safest for lowering a mill …again best when using hinges. . • In the event you want to lower an existing windmill tower…… first weld or bolt

on the set of hinges on two legs. Then on the other leg or legs weld on, or bolt on, the holding lugs….. Fasten these lugs with bolts. See the later sketch of the hinge method, this should be adapted to all existing mills and attached to new ones before erecting. Weld or bolt on the pivot point at the right height up the tower ….Attach the third leg , then attach the foot to the towers base adjacent to the hinged legs… the third leg should be long enough so that it stands away from the tower by about 2 metres when fastened to the tower about 1/3rd of the way up

To lower….a tower Tie a strong rope to the top of the windmill tower, have enough rope length so that its about twice as long as the tower is high. have the third leg in position and the foot attached to the winch or something immovable. Next cut through all legs as shown in fig 5 .[this is after you have attached the hinges and hold down bolts.] Give the rope attaching the third leg a bit of slackness. Undo the bolts holding the front leg/legs…..Then pull on the rope so the tower just starts to lean over, with the third leg taking the weight. Then slowly back off the cable attached to the foot of the third leg thereby allowing the foot of the third leg to walk itself along the ground. .... Want to know more? Well you can buy my book called "The Australian windmills offsider"This manual goes into great detail on the whys & where-fors of working with windmills.....

To Change the Stroke from Long to Short Refer to the illustration, "To Remove the Gearwheels," and follow out the instructions as set out under the heading, "To Remove Gearwheels," up to and including paragraph four. Then continue as follows: .(5) Turn the Gearwheels so that the pair of Short Stroke Bearings are at the top, and replace the Connecting Rods in these Bearings. .(6) Replace the Gearwheels and make certain that the two Connecting Rod Bearings are in line. It is important to remember that the Connecting Rods must he at the top of the stroke when removing and replacing the Gearwheels. When replacing the Gearwheels, make sure the key on the Gearwheel Bearing engages in the slot in the Gearbox. .(7) Replace the Gearwheel Bearing Clamp, No. 92. .(8) Put the Crosshead Pin, No. 56, back into position by reversing the process for removing it. .(9) The clamp on the Pump Rod may now be removed, the Wheel untied, and, after turning round by hand, let the Mill into the wind.

To Remove Gearwheels. If it is necessary at any time to remove the Gearwheels, proceed as follows. (Refer to illustration, "To Remove the Gearwheels," below):— .(1) Tie up the Wheel and clamp the Pump Rod on top of the delivery pipe. .(2) Remove Cotter Pins from Crosshead Pin, No. 56, and then, by sliding the Crosshead Pin sideways, disconnect the Connecting Rods, No. 9. (3,) Now remove setscrew from Gearwheel Bearing Clamp No. 92, .and remove the Clamp. .(4) Untie the Wheel and turn it until the Connecting Rods are at the top. Then lift the Gearwheels out of the Gearbox. (5) Remove the cotter pins and the shaft can then be driven out of the gearwheels, using a piece of brass bar as a drift. It is important to remember that the connecting Rods must be at the top of the stroke when removing or replacing Gearwheels. When the Gearwheels are replaced in position, make sure that the two Connecting Rod Bearings are in line and the key on the Gearwheel Bearing engages in the slot in the Gearbox. (^) Unscrew the plug from the wheel hub and turn the wheel hub until the hole is at the top. Insert a screw driver and screw out the oil collector peg. .(5) Undo the pinion locking screws and slide the mainshaft through the main bearing until the pinions are free. .(6) Hold the new pinions in position and slide the mainshaft back to its. original position. Pinions are fitted with their bosses facing away from the pinion bearing. The oil scraper fits over the boss of the pinion nearest the wheel hub. .(7) Two flat sections are provided at each position where the pinion locking screws tighten down onto the mainshaft. Turn the pinion furthest from the wheel hub on the mainshaft until both flats are visible through the locking screw holes. Screw the two locking screw into the pinion until the ends of the screws bear lightly on the shaft .(8) Unscrew the locking screws approximately one twelveth of a turn and holding the pinion and wheel hub, check that the pinion can still move slightly on the shaft. Retighten both locking screws lightly. Tighten both locking screws securely, .(9) Using the same procedure attach the remaining pinion to the mainshaft .(10) Screw in the oil collector peg and pour about an egg cup full of oil into the hole in the wheel hub. Refit plug in the wheelhub. .(11) Reassemble the rest of the parts in the reverse order to which they were removed. .(12) 6 ft, 8 ft. and 10 ft. mills: Remove lifting tackle and gin pole. .(13) Unclamp the pump rod......

ALL THIS AND MUCH MORE IS IN MY BOOK

Above is a homemade windmill in Fiji, the head is made from the engine block from a early Holden car..The tower is made to lower when cyclones threaten...

To Assemble the Mill Engine (See illustration, "The Mill Engine," .(1) Remove the Mill Engine from its crate. .(2) Put the Crosshead Roller into position in the Guide Bars, No. 58, and remove the fixing pins from the Guide Bars. Then fit the Guide Part into the Gearbox bosses. Drive the fixing pins into the Gearbox boss from the wheel side, and slightly rivet the end not headed, using a dolly and punch. The pin on the gear wheel side can be inserted through one of the holes in the web of the gearwheel. .(3) Check to see that the two crosshead oil rings are round and free in the guides. If the rings have been bent during transit they can be trued up by hand. .(4) Clean and oil the hole for the Pivot Tube on the underneath side of the gearbox. .(5) Put some grease in the vane Hinge Bearing in the back of the gearbox.

To Fit the Mill Engine on Stub Tower. .(1) Thoroughly clean the Pivot Tube. .(2) When the Pivot Tube is quite bright and polished, smear oil over it. Never leave the: Pivot Tube unprotected for any period, because any rust at all on it will prevent the Turntable from functioning as freely as it should. .(3) Three Anti-Friction Washers, No. 66, are fitted in the Turntable Collar at the Factory. Check that they are in place and pour a small amount of oil on them. (4i Make sure that the Reefing Rocker, N'o. 99, Links, No. 100. and Reefing Collar, No. 20. work freely on the Mast Pipe. .(5) 6ft. Mills.__Carry the Mill Engine up the Tower or place a rope around it .and pull it up and place it in position on the Pivot Tube. Now take the Turntable Pivot Tube Circlip, No. 25, and drive it into position in the groove near the top of the Pivot tube. It is driven on from the side and not down over the top end. This circlip prevents the Mill engine from lifting off the Turntable. This completes the fitting of the mill engine on the stub tower for 6ft. Mills, and you can now proceed to fit the vane. .(6) 8ft., 10ft., 12ft. and 14ft. Mill..— (Refer to illustration at right.) Erect a pole as in the illustration, using a length of pipe from the Pump Piping, and a couple of pieces of timber such as Pipe Stays. The piece of timber which holds the pole to the Stub Tower is held with "U" Bolts —one supplied with the Mill and the other with the Pipe and Rods. NOTE: The top piece of timber must be bolted to the Stub Tower below the Reefing Collar. Drill the piece of timber as shown in the illustration; i.e., centres for "U" Bolts to be 11in. apart. .(7) Obtain another piece of timber and drill it to suit another pipe "U" bolt. .(8) Using a "U" Bolt, clamp the top piece of timber to the Stub Tower so that the pole, when attached, will be over one of the Tower Legs. .(9) Using double and single blocks, prepare your blocks and tackle and carry it up to the Tower Platform. If available, use treble and double blocks for 12ft. and 14ft. mills. .(10) Pull the pole up the Tower. .(11) Hook the double block to the top of the pole and then push it up until the top is about 6ft. above the top of the Stub Tower. .(12) Clamp the pole to the piece of timber which is already attached to the Stub Tower. See illustration, "To fit Mil! Engine on Stub Tower". .(9) Undo one of the guy ropes and take it around until it can be used to take the weight off one of the other legs. Undo the end of the timber crosspiece at this leg and fit the Anchor Post. .(10) The other Anchor Post is attached in a similar manner. .(11) Check the tower for centre over the bore using a measuring stick between the legs and the bore, or a plumb-bob and line hung down from the centre of the Pivot Tube. If necessary shift the tower until it is central. .(12) After the Tower is central, check it for plumb by means of a spirit level in three positions round th Pivot Tube. The Pivot Tube is the extreme top part of the Stub Tower. It is very important that this is carefully checked. If it is not plumb, pack under the legs to correct the error and then check the tower again for centre. .(13) Clean up the surface of the concrete already laid in the bottoms of the holes. Any dirt on the surface will prevent the two batches of concrete from binding. .(14) Mix up another batch of concrete, using three parts sand, six parts of stone and one part of cement, and ram about 7 inches of concrete in the bottom of each hole. .(15) Then make three wooden forms to go down around the legs. See illustration. "Concreting the Tower Posts." They are made in the form of a triangle, and are 2ft. lin. long for 6ft. and 8ft. Mills, and 2ft. 9in. long for 10ft., 12ft. and 14ft. Mills. Nail two wide boards together to form a. right-angle. The other board is wired in position when the form is put around the leg. .(16) Fill the forms, with concrete and shape the top so that it will shed water. .(17) Allow concrete to set for a day, then remove the forms and ram earth in around the concrete.

The "yellow tail" is a recent newcomer to the Australian bush

The Southern Cross windmills are an old favourite . They can be found all over Australia.