Please note all manuals on this website,can be purchased as paper books or as PDF files on a cd.

Because of the overseas expensive postage costs, books purchased to go to countries other then Australia, are available only on Cd.

BUT in the event any intending purchaser would want the paperbook then email me first before buying for postage costs.

Buyers outside of Australia can only buy using PayPal.Cheques, bank drafts etc will not be accepted because of the excessive bank charges.

Within Australia buyers can use Paypal, Paymate ,direct banking,money order or personal cheque.If paying other then using PayPal please email me for my address & or my bank details.my email address is don.mcdouall@gmail.com....Thank you.

Need an answer? Then perhaps I can help.

This is a free service,

May I introduce myself. Call me Don.

I am a retired qualified diesel mechanic.I have spent many years in work associated with many type of Farm & industrial tractors.From this I have practical knowledge on most tractors from the period 1920 up until around 1980.

If you have a question on computerized systems then I cannot help you.But if you want to know how to rebuild a Perkins 270D engine, or how to adjust the brakes on Chamberlain 40K, or perhaps how set the fuel pump on a Lanz Bulldog, or you ask what is wrong with my hydraulics etc?Then try me.

To ask a question email me at

donsonline.douall@gmail.com

If the question is relevant to tractors I will post your question with the answer On this website, under the heading vintagetractormechaniconline

Know your diesel engine

Items to check:1- Air intake restriction, bad air filter.2- Injection pump timing.3- Injection pump fuel pressure and volume.4- "Pop" test the injectors and check the spray patterns.5- Turbo boost level.6- Poor quality fuel.7- Automatic over-drive transmissions not shifting into over-drive.8- Lock-up torque converter not locking up.9- Defective PCM (Electronic Control Module), "chip" program module, or inter-related system wiring.10- Other truck related problems.

A problem with a bulldog tractor

reply

Hi sorry Alan for the delay.Sounds to me like you have a carbonised up exhaust ports including muffler, worth checking remove exhaust and have a look?Could also be a blocked air cleaner? But more likely to be the exhaust.

By the way ( this sounds very dangerous, but need not be)Get your tractor out in the paddock pulling an implement that puts a good load on it.in a low gear.Have someone reliable driving ...then walk out in front of the tractor and wind the atomiser in or out to get the best pulling power for that particular job.Thats the way it was always done in my time.When checking the atomiser spray make sure it is squirting all around not to just one side.Make sure you are using the right lubricating oil must be a light grade like 10-20 sae.Also remember these engine were designed to run on diesel fuel not distillate.what we now call diesel fuel was distillate back thenI would imagine the old type diesel is hard to find so you need to add engine oil to the distillatesay 5%?You may of course already know this.Let me know how you get on as I might be able to help further.regards Don McDouall

Chamberlain 306 brake problem

G`Day Richard...Sounds most likely that the band is stuck to the drum?Caused by oil (getting in from the transmission,check drain oil underneath make sure its clear)Or rusted on from lack of use or water getting in.Another cause is return springs weak or broken on centralisers.Then again it could be the ramp balls are jammed?

What I suggest is slacken right off or remove the brake rod . remove the access plate and then remove the nuts/springs on the band, perhaps remove the clevis pin then pry the band away from the drum.If the lining is worn away it would need replacing. if saturated in oil then perhaps spraying same with a good degreaser may get it free from grabbing. Check that the actuating rod moves the band properly when reassembled . If after this the brake continues to grab or lock on then you would need to take it all apart and check lining, drum, pivot points, a ramp up balls ( the latter is what moves the brake on and off.)Note to disassemble you need to remove the wheel. hope this helps regards don McDouall

Thanks for the reply Don,I’m sure its the ramp balls that are stuck and the only thing I can think of is using a chisel on it to try and turn it loose, but obviously this will damage the brake. any suggestions ?

Hi Richard. before using the chisel method i would try the following. Block up the drain hole at the bottom of the casing. then fill the cavity with kerosene , with say some penetrating oil such as penetrene mixed therein. If possible put in enough to cover the parts that contain the balls.Not having the tractor in front of me I dont know if the aforsaid is possible, but what would be possible would be to spray continuously the parts with penetrating oil.(you can buy bulk penetrene) You could catch as it drains and keep reusing.

Once you have done this & giving it plenty of time to penetrate.You would need to shock the parts.Mechanically you could do this with a blunt heavy chisel and a large hammerbe very careful you do not chip the balls or where they ride?The other method worth a try is to heat the ball carrier so parts expand (hot enough to make water sizzle.) then cool down rapidly by spraying with water.Or make it very cold if you have access to CO2 spray the gas straight onto the part as it evaporates it will make the casting very cold. while you are doing any of this take the pressure off the actual brake band, usually by removing the clevis pin.As previously said if none of this works then the wheel needs to come off the get to the offending parts. then again I would persevere with trying to free it.The band can sometimes be stuck so make sure it is free. hope this helps & let me know how you get onregards Don

Again thanks for the reply Don,your suggestions are much appreciatedI’m sure one way or another I will be able to sort it out nowCheers mate and good luckRichard

Ken wants to know how to adjust the PTO on a Chamberlain c670

PTO Clutch adjustmentInternal adjustment. Remove large plug in top of the fork housing.Using a hammer and a large screw driver.Tighten the locknut.

A force of around 40 lbs to engage or disengage on the hand lever with engine running is sufficient.Check that the pawls move correctly well onto the cone & are parallel when in the engaged position.Note... over-tightening when cold can result in only partial engagement.Make sure the hand lever does not foul the foot plate, in out & in positions.You adjust the operating rod to overcome any fouling.Check with this rod disconnected for a snap in or out of the spring loaded hand lever.Always make sure the correct oil type is used. Thickened oil from say the transmission will cause problems.Check there is a minimum of 10 thou clearance between pressure plate & clutch plates in the disengaged position.

If this doesnt solve the problem, then you need to pull the unit apart.Best done using a workshop manual, always make sure plates etc go back as they were.hope this helps don

how to remove brake parts from a Chamberlain C670

Hi Mark.2 different types of brakes are found on the C670 or the C6100Conventional shoes mechanical or the band method mechanical. on both you have to remove the wheelsYours evidently are the bands?Same as a 306 Chamberlain.With this system you need to remove the wheels , & the center castingundo the clevis and unscrew. remove all parts from the band return hooks.remove inspection cover. undo the allen screw and remove the pivot pin.pull out the half shaft far enough to clear the brake assembly then carefully remove the brake assembly through the housing.Comes out as a complete assembly.Note be very careful to note where shims are if used.Unless you have access to plenty of mechanical workshop equipment, don't pull it apart better to get a workshop to do it.Problems mainly associated with this brake system are the wear associated with the brake actuating method. This comprises 4 steel balls that ride in slots within a casting hub.these get stuck or get worn.The best manual to work on these brakes I have is called brake supplement for the Chamberlain 306.Tells you how to dismantle & assemble the band brakes.10 pages.

hope this is of help regards Don

Chamberlain 9G stiff steering

Jenny.There are two types of manual steering boxes fitted to the 9G.I assume yours isnt the industrial power steering?

Type A

Type B

you can tell the type you have by counting steering wheel turns lock to lock.

Before doing anything to the steering box check first the tyres are pumped up hard.then check drag link and tie rod ends for wear or tightness lack of grease etc.then check that the steering box has oil.

Hard steering problems associated with the box are usually due to wear of the ball bearings or the races or both.

if you dismantle the box take note where everything goes like shimms etc.

Replace all balls if any are damaged. make sure you use the right diameter balls & the right number of balls also note they are most likely Imperial size?

If balls are replaced nearly always you need to replace the races and any othe bearings within the box.

Reconditioned boxes are available on an exchange basis, you need to google for where.But they are not cheap.A Chamberlain manual is available from me . just ask and I will make sure it is up on this site.

My advice is not to try rebuilding without the manual, but you dont need a manual to check things out.

You have to remove the steering box to work on it. Hope this is of help regards Don MbCdouall

International 454 Dipstick problems

Matt Cook here I have an Inter 454 and both dipsticks (engine and trans.)

have been broken off and soldered back together.

The sticks that were put on I don't even think were the originals.

Anyway my question is do you have or could you tell me where to source

the specs for the length of the sticks and the location of the high and low marks?

I have an owners and workshop manual and neither have them, also have tried

Cornish's (a IH dealer) and they don't have the specs nor replacement ones and

they cant get them from Bearco either.

Kindest Regards

Matt Cook

G`Day Matt.

Go to your Inter manuals, look up the amount of oil required.Drain your engine & Transmission.Clean bungs thoroughly if you want to reuse the oil.Then replace the oil as recommended with exactly the required amount.LESS 1 Litre or one quart.

Note if you have imperial measurements in your manual then convert exactly into metric if you only have metric vessels.

Using a length of wire or something small enough & long enough to go into theDipstick hole.Make a mark where the dipstick is going to rest or stop on the housing.Make a mark where the oil level is ( this will be your low level.Add the quart or litre, make a mark at full level.Transfer these marks to the material you are going to use as the dipsticks.

Above is a bit tedious but it is unlikely any manual will tell you the specs of the dipsticksCheers Don

MF 135 breaking Fuel pump rotor.

Hi Nick.Cannot tell you the actual cause.But certain items maybe at fault.First thing I would look at is backlash of the timing gears, if this is excessive it would throw an excessive load onto parts like the fuel pump.Remove the timing coverthen rock the engine back and forth to see the backlash if any (there will be a little)If it is excessive you need to replace the offending timing gearsAlso look for wear or looseness around the actual pump drive gear.

The other thing ( but this should be obvious) is water in the fuelWater as such cannot pass through the pump it will lock it up.If the engine is running and water gets into the pump, the pump will lockThe inertia most likely will then snap the weakest link.Just a teaspoon full of water will cause this.

Hope this was of help regards Don

Chamberlain crane brake adjustment

Hi JasonNot sure what model you have?Problem with cranes that used the Chamberlain tractor as the prime mover was the manufacturer would order a tractor with an engine of smaller capacity then the agriculture type.When you say you Have a 6 speed transmission I assume you have a 3 speed box into a 2 speed second box.If so you have the 6G transmission (9g had the 3 speed going into a 3 speed hence the 9 gears.)Again the Perkins 4.236 could be a later addition? Taking the place of a Perkins L4 or a 270D ?Tractors as the 306-354 had the 9 speeds.

So you need to work out from the following how to adjust brakes

First with all check that all linkages are working , not binding or badly worn correct this first.Next disconnect the linkage where it enters the brakes

If you have the type that shows 2 large nuts turn these back and forth making sure they can turn freely.Next back off the bottom adjustment fully.

Next turn one of the large nuts until the shaft sits nicely into the cam with out being tight and lock up with the locknut tight.Do the same with the other and lockup.Always make sure the locknut is dead tight. check that action of the cam moves the shoes back and forth freely.Next adjust the bottom until a slight drag ( lock right up then back off until a slight drag) Do the same to both wheels Then adjust the brake linkages evenly to take up the slack until you have about A quarter of the brake pedal movement as free movement.Making sure each pedal is the same in movements

If liners are worn out they need replacing you wont get good brakes with badly worn liners.

There is another type that uses a brake band, but I don’t think that is yours?

Again there is even another type with just one cam to each brake.I would need more info if this is your type.Hope this was of help Regards Don

Farmliner 445 DT fuel problems

I came upon your website while trying to track down a manual for my Universal Farmliner 445DT tractor.

I am currently experiencing problems with this tractor and I was hoping that you may be able to offer some words of wisdom?

When this tractor is used on flat ground, there is no problem. However, as soon as the ground slopes up or sideways (doesn't happen when going downhill), the tractor stops.

Once this happens, I need to crack the injectors to bleed the fuel line in order for the tractor to start again.

I'm thinking that this could possibly be due to a problem with the fuel tank (rust in the tank, affecting pick up). However, today I've removed the fuel to investigate this option and the tank doesn't have much (if any) rust flakes so I'm starting to think that this isn't the cause of the problem.

Any suggestions or tips you may have would be greatfully appreciated!!

With thanks,

Grant Wells

G`Day Grant

Your problem could be one of a few things.

First I would check the fuel line from the lift pump to any filter that is in the suction line and onto the tank.Check for partial blockage, external leaks etc.Then look at the fuel pipe connections to the tank, any of this pipe that would be above the fuel at certain angles is suspect especially for hairline cracks, you need to really look at every joint and every bit of pipe that when the tractor is level is immersed under the fuel, but when the angle changes is above, if there is a leak here then that is your problem.(the lift pump will always suck air in preference to a solid)An easy way to check the line from the lift pump to the tank Is to replace it with a tempory plastic fuel pipe, just feed this into the top of the tank immersed below the fuel.If the system still sucks air then it is the lift pump. Even a pump that cannot pressurise the fuel could be the reason.Many years ago I had a recurring problem with a truck at anytime time it would suddenly stop. Had the tank off many times.Finally found the reason a small gum leaf the suction would grab it now and thenBut don’t think that is your problem

Any problems between the lift pump and the fuel pump will show up as fuel leaks Hope this was of helpCheers Don

Perkins 270D crankshaft bearings?

Hi LincolnI would say yes. but then again it depends on who made the bearing?about the only real way you could tell would be to measure the crank shaftstd mains are 2.99825/2.9985std conrod are 2.74825/2.749 inchyou can get 10-20-30 oversizehope this helps don

What may be worth knowing is there are more then one type of conrod bearing fitted to these engines.also note the following

CRANKSHAFT REGRINDINGThe fillet radii of the Four 270D crankshaft has been cold rolled to add bending fatigue strength.Regrinding of the crankshaft will practically remove the beneficial effects of cold rolling and as thiseffect is necessary in the Four 270D engine, it is essential that unless rerolling equipment is available,fitting of a replacement crankshaft should be carried out with a crankshaft obtained from F. PerkinsLtd.

International 300 tractor hard to start.

I have a carburettor problem (?) with my old 300 IH Utility tractor.

I readjusted the float measurements and it runs fine once I get it going. I can stop and restart it while using it, but if it sits a day or more it won't start on it's own.

To start it, I have to take out a spark plug and inject some gas into the cylinder. Trying it start it the normal way the spark plugs will be dry. Gas can be dripping out of the carb but the spark plugs will be dry.

Once I have gas in the cylinder, it starts right up and runs great.

I checked the choke and that seems to be closed. What should I check next?

Thanks, Penny H.

Hi Penny.sounds to me like the engine has one of two or both problems1#very poor compressionIf this is the case the engine cannot suck in any fuel at start.if you dont have a method of testing an easy way is remove the plugs inject some engine oil but no petrol replace the plugs and try to start in the normal way usng the choke.If the engine then starts it is for sure worn out bore or piston rings, or valves not sealing2#a loose Carby or inlet manifold but this is not likely unless there is a lot of back firing when runningget back to me as to how you went?

worth checking also is the fuel pump if fitted ?and also try blocking the carby with some rag as you turn the engine overIf it starts then, it is the choke or leaks between the carby & manifold or between the head & inlet manifold.As this tractor uses a up draught carby there can be air leaks anywhere between the fuel bowl right up to where the manifold fits the block, so check at each join there are many, alsothe choke shaft might be worn? but using rag to block the air inlet will prove that.One other thing that makes life difficault with updraught carbies are such things as worn valve guides combined with valves that are not seating wellWith such an old tractor as yours and as you say it runs ok once started, you might not want to spend money on it.So if you prove that adding oil via the spark plug holes made it start ( all this does is make it possible for the engine to obtain a partial vaccum within the inlet manifold whic is a must for an updraft carby.}you could instead of doing that add engine oil to your petrol say at a ratio of 30:1 much like a 2 stroke mixture, this will tend to smoke at the exhaust, but when the engine stops oil will be left around the rings and on the cylinder walls.Most mechanics would shun this idea but it is worth doing in place of expensive rebuilds.regards Don

Tractor hydraulic problem

On Sun, Jul 10, 2011 at 9:48 PM, Don Eversole

Hello, hope you can help me.The 3pt lift stopped working, I figured out that if I move my bucket control lever just a little it raises fine and will stay. The front loader isn't as strong as it has been and power steering is hard sometimes but usually starts working ok except with a heavy load, (round bale). Any input would be appreciated. Fluid and filter have been changed no difference . Don

Hi Don.Start from the least expensive.1# Check your pump suction line, making sure any joints in the pipeline above oil are sealedcheck suction strainer.2# Check pump relief valve that it doesn't have something holding the valve off its seat under load?3# Using a pressure gauge check the pump under load, fit the gauge anywhere between pump and its load.If it is 10% below recommended pressure then it is most likely a worn pump or a leak somewhere on the pressure side.

to rectify.there is really only one way to fix a worn pump, that is with a new one.Hydraulic priority is usually giving to the steering, so if it is hard to steer you can be sure it is because of low oil pressure.Again if you know what you are doing you can repair a pump, but with labour costs as they are now it could be false economy to farm it out.Or perhaps locate a secondhand one from a wreckers.with the relief valve look for a worn or broken spring , check the actual valve faces if worn they can be refaced sometimes.

With old tractors vibration can make pipeline come loose, so check and rectify any that seem to be that way.A hairline crack might not be visible but leaks under pressure.such pipeline might be below the oil level then it is hard to see... foam and bubbles are a good indicator of this problem.

Because you have the problem in more then one application you can rule out worn cylinders, but if you have a control valve that is multi meaning it controls more then on application then it is a suspect too.Check for "0" ring wear etc.

A quick easy way to see if it is pump pressure is to use a heavier oil.It will not hurt the system.Just use a non detergent oil around 50 sae, or add a oil stabiliser/thickener to the existing oil this can be got from various suppliers "BARS" make one if you use it add sufficient to the oil required mix well before adding ( drain oil mix it then replace)

Just remember this oil change might help a lot, but it doesnt fix the real problem.hope this is of helpcheers Don

Fiat 615 jerky hydraulic linkage

Thanks johno....

Hi JohnoFirst make sure the right type of oil is there and filled up to required level.That all filters both pressure and suction are clear...Then check any suction plumbing that is above the oil level, or will be when the linkage is in the up position for leaks.... just a small air leak will cause the problem you have.....Check relief valve for a broken spring etcother reasons can be ...faulty adjustment of the control valve/spool...drain valve leaking or stuck....poor sealing of seals or valves to lift cylinder....

But the most likely is air getting into the pump, this can be from a broken gasket damaged seals or excessive vacuum due to heavy oil or an obstruction within the suction line.hope this is of help regards don

Timing perkins 6-306/354 fuel pump

Hi Darrylits straight forward... the fuel pump spline can only go in one way, as you will see a spline tooth is missing?

If all the timing has been lost then this may help....Fuel Pump Timing :There are a number of timing marks pertaining to the fuel pump, which when aligned in the correctmanner, ensure the fuel pump is timed to the engine correctly..... -

Firstly, with No. 1 piston al T.D.C. on compression and with the fuel pump removed, the slot in the fuel pump drive hub should be aligned with the slot in the fuel pump adaptor plate.....

If these slots are not in line, remove the auxiliary drive gear cover plate from the front of the timing case, release the three securing setscrews of the gear and turn the auxiliary drive shaft until the slots line up. Re-tension the setscrews fo 20-22 lbs./ft........

Secondly, on the fuel pump rotor, inside the fuel pump, are a number of scribed lines, each one bearing an individual letter. At the static timing point, the scribed line 'F' on the rotor should be aligned with the end of the circlip which has a straight edge, the other end having a curved edge,Thirdly, a scribed line on the fuel pump mounting flange and another on the fuel pump adapter plate. When the fuel pump is fitted to the engine, before tightening the securing nuts, these two scribed lines should be aligned with each other.hope this is of help regards Don

Adjusting the PTO clutch on a Chamberlain 6c100 etc

I have a Chamberlain C670 in which the PTO continuaaly runs. The clutch was replaced in the PTO 2 yrs ago. Does the manual for the C670 cover in detail the method of adjusting the PTO so that I can stop it running. I saw your answer to Ken regarding the PTO but require more detail.

Thanks

Kevin Wilson.........

Hi kevinI assume you mean it continues to run under load?(turning with no load is often a possible, not much you can do for that)...

First make sure the oil used is of the right type....Therefor a low viscocity, high index anti foaming type....

That the box is not over filled?....Next check the PTO clutch adjustment...remove the large plug & using a hammer and drift.Release the locknut and adjust the hand lever to no more then a 40lb pressure needed to engage the clutch... do this with a spring balance type weight measure ... dont guess....

There should be about a 10 thou clearance between plates when disengaged.....

The C670 or the C6100 service will not tell you much, the best manual for what you want is the chamberlain 306-354 workshop this tells you how to set up the pto clutch etc....hope this is of help regards Don

perkins fuel pump timing

Hi Darrylits straight forward... the fuel pump spline can only go in one way, as you will see a spline tooth is missing?

If all the timing has been lost then this may help....Fuel Pump Timing :There are a number of timing marks appertaining to the fuel pump, which when aligned in the correctmanner, ensure the fuel pump is timed to the engine correctly. -

Firstly, with No. 1 piston al T.D.C. on compression and with the fuel pump removed, the slot in the fuel pump drive hub should be aligned with the slot in the fuel pump adaptor plate.

If these slots are not in line, remove the auxiliary drive gear cover plate from the front of the timing case, release the three securing setscrews of the gear and turn the auxiliary drive shaft until the slots line up. Re-tension the sefscrews fo 20-22 lbs./ft.

Secondly, on the fuel pump rotor, inside the fuel pump, are a number of scribed lines, each one bearing an individual letter. At the static timing point, the scribed line 'F' on the rotor should be aligned with the end of the circlip which has a straight edge, the other end having a curved edge,Thirdly, a scribed line on the fuel pump mounting flange and another on the fuel pump adapter plate. When the fuel pump is fitted to the engine, before tightening the securing nuts, these two scribed lines should be aligned with each other.hope this is of help regards Don

hydraulic problems

Thanks johno

Hi JohnoFirst make sure the right type of oil is there and filled up to required level.That all filters both pressure and suction are clear.Then check any suction plumbing that is above the oil for leaks just a small air leak will cause the problem you have.Check relieve valve for broken spring etcother reasons can be ...faulty adjustment of the control valve/spooldrain valve leaking or stuckpoor sealing of seals or valves to lift cylinder.

But the most likely is air getting into the pump, this can be from a broken gasket damaged seals or excessive vacuum due to heavy oil or an obstruction within the suction line.hope this is of help regards don

McCormick tractor transmission problems

I have a McCormick International A414 tractor that won't move.

It happened when I turned up the wrong row in our vineyard and I tried to reverse back but nothing happened - gears appear to engage but there is no movement of the wheels only a slight grinding noise coming from the gearbox. I have tried every combination of Hi Lo with 1-2-3-4 but no movement.

Any clues would be much appreciated.

Hi Johnsounds like serious trouble.1#.the centre of the clutch plate has torn out.2# the input shaft (spigot shaft) that takes the drive from the clutch plate to the gearbox has broken or the gear that is a part of this shaft has lost teeth,3# The output shaft from the gears to the differential has broken or lost teeth say on the pinion.4# the final drive has lost drive

With a good light you maybe able to see into the clutch housing to see if the the input shaft revolves with engine running. There might be a plate or the top of the gear box that will allow you to see what is revolving when the box is in neutral and then in a gear.again there might be somewhere , where you can see into final drives etc.

You might with a stethoscope be able to work out just where the grinding noise is located .But sadly It looks like you will need to dismantle the tractor . but before you do try to locate where the problem is.... no sense in splitting the tractor to get to the clutch if it is a broken axle, or the opposite actions if you know what I mean.hope this was of some help regards Don mcDouall

might sound silly but are you sure you are not locked into say reverse , at the same time as you are trying or are engaging another gear can happen ?

fordson which series is it?

Hi Frankwell !!! one must say well .If you were to go into google picture search and search forfordson major....then fordson major new...then ... power major ...then... fordson major super you might be able to identify your model.The old 1945-50 Major had a diesel Perkins P6 engine.Then in 1952 the model new major came out... this had Fords own engine... this model about 1954 was updated to the power major which was much the same tractor.then the last of that series (major) the super majorThe Dexta in each model was just a smaller version.

I would say you would be safe with the Cd for the Fordson New Major, the power Major & the super MajorAll had lever actuated start motors, but cannot remember if all were foot or some were hand operated?hope this is of help regards Don mcDouall

Massey Harris 33 transmision oil capacity?

Here's hoping you can help,I am in the process of changing the rear end oil in my fathers old tractor it was full of water from sitting outside.....I picked up Tractor Hydraulic 80/90 Gear oil and would like to know how much the rear end needs to fill up to check hole on the side. Thank you Helen from New Brunswick ,Canada

Hi Helen.Checked my records but came up with nothing.What I suggest as it was already full of water.Put the drain plug back in. then measure how much water is needed to fill up to the level plug.Then drain right out leaving it to drain over night.A better Idea would be to use kerosene (paraffin I think your way) or diesel fuel again fill up to plug then drive around to get any water still in bearings etc into the solventand then drain, Dont of course drive around if you used water, or gasolene ?Hope this is of help regards Don

removing Starter motor on a 40K

I have a Chamberlain 40KA converted to a super 70 that has a delko remmy starter motor on it. I am having trouble getting the starter motor off as there is not enough clearance between the oil cooler. The ironic thing is that I had it off about 6 months ago but can't for the life of me work out how to get it off again. Just wondering if you have any idea on how to get it off. PLEASE.

Hi.A bit hard to follow, not seeing it.I assume you mean the 40KA engine has gone replaced by???Again I assume a detroit GM or is it a Meadows?would need to know before I can offer any advice regards Don

Farmall cub wiring

#1

Positive battery cable to starter (heavy gauge wire) Starter to resister resister to coil Coil to positive terminal on amp meter

#2

Light switch to positive terminal on amp meter

#3

Negative terminal on amp meter to alternator

Can you tell us what we are doing wrong?

Hi JoAnn

One assumes your tractor has coil ignition not a magneto?

Go back to basics.First you need a ignition circuit

Note use a negative earth system { some early stuff was positive earth}

So negative battery terminal to earth (or ground) best place always for this is a bolt that holds the starter motor on this lead needs to be of copper and can carry 250 amps for a short time.

Another heavy lead to the starter motor terminalFrom this terminal with much smaller wire go the ignition switchFrom the right ignition terminal wire to positive (+) side of coil Then wire from (-) side of coil to contact points.That circuit is now complete…. Check there is no spark at contact points when ignition switch is off.

Charging circuit

Heavy wire from main alternator terminal to positive side of ampmeterThen from negative side the same gauge wire to the terminal on the starter motor

The alternator field coil wire goes to ignition switch so it is not active when ignition is off..

Starting circuitIf there is a button then it is just a wire from starter terminal to button another wire to live terminal on solonoid pressing button completes the circuit.If starting is with the ignition switch then it’s the same except the switch contacts take the place of the button.If you are novices with this I suggest you keep each circuit separate from the other.

Use an inline fuse on each one.

It sounds like you have a dead short that you cannot seeNormally if you were draining a fully charged battery within a few minutes it would be very obvious…. Very hot wiring etc.

First make sure that when you start the engine, the starter stops motoring.Once engine has started… it might be running all the time.

That is about the only thing that can drain a battery fast other then a dead short To test for such a large or heavy short … run engine then feel various components Such as the starter, battery leads both, alternator, around the instrumentsAlso check that the battery itself has not got an internal cell shorting out?

About all I can suggest I have attached a wiring diagram that may help Regards Don McDouall

I can’t express how much I appreciate your time and expertise in explaining this. Now to get my husband to pull the tractor apart again! God bless you.

Much Thanks,Joann

Please see questions below. After reviewing your email, we need some clarification to be sure we understand all the connections.

If you do a “Reply”, then click your curser after the question, it will allow you to type in your answers

Hi JoAnn

One assumes your tractor has coil ignition not a magneto? Yes, it has a coil. It has also been converted from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system.

Go back to basics.First you need a ignition circuit Note use a negative earth system { some early stuff was positive earth}

So negative battery terminal to earth (or ground) best place always for this is a bolt that holds the starter motor on this lead needs to be of copper and can carry 250 amps for a short time. By this you mean bolt the negative feed to the tractor frame at the starter, not the terminal......... Is this correct?Another heavy lead to the starter motor terminal Where does this heavy lead come from that you connect to the starter terminal?From the starterterminal with much smaller wire go the ignition switch Positive or negative terminal on the ignition switch?? From the right ignition terminal wire to positive (+) side of coil Is the right ignition terminal the positive side?Then wire from (-) side of coil to contact points. Contact points is the distributorThat circuit is now complete…. Check there is no spark at contact points when ignition switch is off.

If the negative battery terminal is connected to the starter bolt, then to what is the positive battery terminal connected?

Charging circuit

Heavy wire from main alternator terminal to positive side of ampmeter We have a single phase alternator. Only one terminal. Can you explain how to hook up a single phase alternator?

Then from negative side the same gauge wire to the terminal on the starter motor

The alternator field coil wire goes to ignition switch so it is not active when ignition is off..

Starting circuitIf there is a button then it is just a wire from starter terminal to button another wire to live terminal on solonoid pressing button completes the circuit.If starting is with the ignition switch then it’s the same except the switch contacts take the place of the button.The tractor has a on/off pull switch. You pull the switch out to crank, then you have a rod that is connected to the starter that you pull. This depresses a button on the starter that causes the starter to turn over. Can you please explain how to wire this setup? Please specify whether negative or positive terminals.

If you are novices with this I suggest you keep each circuit separate from the other.

Use an inline fuse on each one.

It sounds like you have a dead short that you cannot seeNormally if you were draining a fully charged battery within a few minutes it would be very obvious…. Very hot wiring etc.

First make sure that when you start the engine, the starter stops motoring.Once engine has started… it might be running all the time.

That is about the only thing that can drain a battery fast other then a dead shortTo test for such a large or heavy short … run engine then feel various componentsSuch as the starter, battery leads both, alternator, around the instrumentsAlso check that the battery itself has not got an internal cell shorting out?

Hisee belowTried the cusor idea but no joy.

1# Most old vehicles have been changed to 12 volts mainly because 6 volt batteries are hard to find, also the extra voltage help to start etc.all that is changed is the charging method therefor a 12volt generator or alternator and coiland any bulbs that is all.

2#The heavy wire from the negative battery terminal goes to earth… best earth is a bolt that is holding the starter motor onto the engine or any bolt that is close by…. This is to keep the resistance as low as possible.

3#\ The heavy lead from the positive side of the battery goes to the terminalthat is the input terminal of the starter motor….. or the solenoid that actuates the starter motor….. there is always a terminal for this and it is the same terminal that all socalled live wires are connected to therefor the positive wires.

4#you take a wire from the above mentioned terminal to the switchit will go to a switch terminal that can be marked various ways. It is usually the more robust of the switch terminals… might be marked as+ or ign or bat. If there is one marked bat or + and also one marked ign thenit does not go to ign.

5#Most coils are marked at the terminals as + or -- or A – B or ign – contactSometimes hard to see… also make sure you are using a 12 volt coil not a 6 volt oneIf in doubt get another coil from the wreckers they are everywhere as not used on modern vehicles.The live wire from ignition switch goes to the positive side + or A or IgnThe wire on the other coil terminal goes to the contact points.

6#Yes the terminal on side of the distributor… make sure it is not shorting out at that terminal should be no spark if points are held open but a spark can be flicked on the earth if points are closed and ignition is on.

7#Positive battery lead goes to the starter terminal…. Not earth

8#You have a more modern alternator the wire from itGoes to the positive side of the ampmeter then the same thickness wire goes from the other amp meter terminal to the starter terminal that is connected to the positive battery terminal.All live wires or the wires that are doing work come off the amp meter terminalTo which the alternator wire is attached.Therefor the lights etc

Except for the starting circuit (about 250 amps) use a fuse for each circuit. On old vehicles inline fuses are best easy to locate a fault etc.

use a heavy fuse 50 amp etc for the alternator circuit then the rest could be 15 or 20 amp

9#the pull switch ? don’t know would have to be an ignition switch?Or perhaps the one that makes the starter terminal active?Would need a picture to say just what it is doing See sketch for the rod actuated starter motorAll active live wires are positiveNote each circuit must have a return to earth of negative side to completeregards don

We wired the tractor per your instructions. The only thing that we were not sure of was the button you pull out to crank the tractor (one that makes the starter terminal active). You pull out the button, then pull the rod that cranks the tractor. My husband says positive/negative connections on this on/off switch should not matter since it is an on/off switch.

We have a wire connecting the solenoid/starter to on/off pull button terminal. The other on/off terminal button is connected to the coil

Is this correct?

The tractor cranks and runs, but the amp meter is reading on the negative. Is this correct reading for a negative earth system?

Hi JoanOne assumes the pull push switch to the starter solenoid is to activate the solenoidWith all switches or circuits using a battery you have a live wire from the positive battery terminal going to the switch or device the switch or device completed either by a wire going back to the negative battery terminal or what is much more common to ground or earththis being the metal of the tractor that the battery terminal is attached to via a heavy cable.Re the amp meter reading.... start the tractor let it only idle, then watching the amp meter rev it up, if needle moves to the negative side then remove both wires that are the alternatorcircuit and replace on the amp meter in reverse... the needle should then show a positive charge reading when revved up. if no amp reading when the engine is reved up, look for such things as a loose fan beltor wiring is wrong.... remember to charge the battery the current has to flow into the battery thorough the positive terminal then back out via the negative terminal to earth which is also the body of the alternator...Important any part of the wiring circuit that is not positive to negative , but the other way round is a short. seriously can be a dead short that will burn out the wire or what it activates.regards don

latest inquiries

Adjustment: Periodically check the pedal adjustment, Press the pedal downward by hand until the resistance to movement sharply increases, indicating that the throw-out bearing has made contact with the clutch release levers. The distance the pedal moves before contact is made should be 1" to 2" and should not be allowed to reduce to less than 1". Should the measurement reduce to zero severe wear and clutch slippage will result.

To adjust the pedal, slacken the two locknuts on either side of the block on the clutch link (on the inside of the chassis, under the footplate), adjust them to suit, then re-tighten.

Clutch Brake Adjustment. As the lining wears, or if the main clutch is adjusted, if will become necessary to adjust the clutch brake, After adjusting the main clutch, check the clutch brake linkage- With the clutch engaged (pedal released),the small lever on the clutch brake screw {protruding from the side of the gearbox) should be at an angle of approximately 90° to the spring loaded link. If necessary slacken the bolt in the cross-shaft lever slot and adjust to suit. Retighten the bolt and fully depress the clutch pedal. In this position the cross-shaft lever should compress the springs on the link by moving ½ to 1" away from the lower stop nut. If neces-sary slacken the locknut on the brake adjusting screw and adjust the slotted screw to suit. Re-tighten the lock nuT and re-check the linkage movement...........................................................Thank you very much Don.........................................................

Hi Don,

My gearbox oil on my recent Nuffield 342 purchase is looking a little low.

I have organised to purchase the workshop manual and operators manual from the U.K. recently and am still waiting on them to arrive.

I wanting to do some work with tractor over the weekend and am looking for a recommendation on transmission oil to purchase so that I can top it up.

Whilst you at it a recommendation on grease for my slasher gearbox and some grease to lubricate the appropriate points on the tractor would also be appreciated.

Thanks for your help.

Regards,

Gavin...........................................................Hi Gavin a bit late as my connection has been down for a few days.A 90-140 oil would be ok.I would imagine the slasher g/box should have oil?If so the 90/140 oil would be okIf grease any multi purpose grease will do for both g/box and and greasing pionts.hope this was of help regards Don

Hi Don,

No problems.

Thanks once again for your help.

Kind Regards,

Gavin