Please note all manuals on this website,can be purchased only as pdf downloads NO paper books or cd`s. Due to the heavy costs of printing and postage

Buyers outside of Australia can only buy using PayPal. Cheques, bank drafts etc will not be accepted because of the excessive bank charges.

Within Australia buyers can use Paypal,direct banking . If paying other then using PayPal please email me for my bank details. my email address is ....Thank you.

Need an answer?about your tractor or truck prior to say 1990 Then perhaps I can help.

This is a free service... just ask via my email address don.mcdouall@

May I introduce myself. Call me Don.

I am a retired qualified diesel mechanic.Wont be seeing 80 again I have spent many years in work associated with many types of Farm & industrial tractors, truck and general machinery. From this I have practical knowledge on most tractors etc from the period the 1920`s up until around 1990`s. I also spent much time in various parts of the world drilling for ground water, so have a bit of knowledge there too.

If you have a question on computerized systems then I cannot help you. But if you want to know how to rebuild a Perkins 270D engine, or how to adjust the brakes on Chamberlain 40K, or perhaps how set the fuel pump on a Lanz Bulldog, or you ask what is wrong with my hydraulics etc? Then try me.

Notice here the original email address that was has been hijacked and anyone who has been trying to contact me,,, that is the reason for no answers

If the question is relevant I will post your question with the answer as giving on ban email. On this website, under the heading vintagetractormechaniconline

Tractor hydraulics are a major concern... the following might be helpful... tractor-manuals-downunder.


A major cause of component malfunction may be due to the hydraulic oil within the system. Use only the recommended t3^e oil ‘ and make certain of a clean supply within the system. Improper types or contaminated hydraulic oil can cause foamii^, heating and become thin, causing the spools in the control valves to leak and making the pump appear worn. Determine which of the problems listed below is most like the malfunction experienced

PROBLEM 1. Pump noisy and overheating. Possible Cause A. Oil supply low. B. Wrong type of oil in system.

Correction A. Fill the system to the proper level. B. Drain the hydraulic system and refill with the correct fluid.

Possible Cause C. Contaminated oil. D. Pump suction hose plugged. E. Pump worn or damaged.

Correction C. Drain the system, change filter element and refill with clean oil. D. Remove suction hose and inspect for obstruction. E. Test the pump and, if the results indicate a worn or damaged pump, service as necessary.

PROBLEM 2. Pump shaft seal leaking. Possible Cause A. Worn shaft seal. B. Excessive internal wear or damage to the inner pump seals.

Correction A. Replace shaft seal. B. Service pump, as necessary. PROBLEM 3. Low system pressure.

Possible Cause A. Control valve's internal relief valve screen dirty or plugged, or the relief valve is worn, or stuck. B. Leaking "0"-ring around barrel of relief valve. C. Pump worn or damaged.

Correction A. Test the control valve as recommended and service the relief valve, as necessary. B. Replace "0"-ring. C. Test the pump as recommended and service, if required.

PROBLEM 4. Sticky control valve spool.

Possible Cause A. Foreign material in spool bore.

Correction A. Disassemble the valve and clean the spool bore.

PROBLEM 5. External leakage of the control valve. Possible Cause A. Damaged "0”-rings on plugs, in valve ports or in spool bore.

Correction A. Replace ”0”-rings. tractor-manuals-downunder.

Possible Cause B. Damaged or worn valve mounting gasket.

Correction B. Replace gasket.

PROBLEM &. Load drops with valve spool in neutral position.

Possible Cause A. Hose to cylinder leaking. B. Damaged cylinder packing.

Correction A. Check hoses for damage, replace "0"-ring and tighten fittings, as necessary. B. Test the cylinders as recommended and service, as required. C. Lift spool of control valve not returning to C. Check the spool travel and test the control center or excessive wear between valve spool and spool bore. valve as recommended. Repair or replace valve, as necessary.

PROBLEM 7. Loader fails to raise.

Possible Cause A. Low oil level or improper type of oil in system. B. Obstruction in pump suction hose. C. Pump not operating.

Correction A. Fill the system with the recommended type fluid. B. Inspect the hose for kinks and obstruction. C. Inspect the pump shaft for a broken key.

PROBLEM 8. Loader has a slow or erratic lift. Possible Cause A. Ei^ne rpm too low. B. Oil supply low or in^roper type of oil in the system. C. Foaming oil. D. Leaking or restricted suction hose or pressure hose. E. Air in one lift cylinder. F. Main line relief valve malfunction.

Correction A. Use the recommended operating rpm. B. FiU the system with the proper type of oil. C. Refer to Problem 10 and correct the malfunction. D. Check the hoses for kinks, damages and obstructions. Replace damaged "0"-rings and tighten hose connections. E. Follow the recommended procedure for filling the system with fluid; this will ejq>el the air. F. Test the control valve as recommended and service, as necessary.

Possible Cause G. Damaged or worn pump.

Correction G. Test the pump as recommended and repair or replace, as required.

PROBLEM 9. Excessive breakage of hoses. Possible Cause A. Hoses not properly installed. B. Main line relief valve setting too high.

Correction A. Hose assemblies mtist be installed without the slightest kink or twist. B. Test the control valve as recommended and service, as necessary.

PROBLEM 10. Foaming oil.

Possible Cause A. Low oil level or improper type of oil in system. B. Air leakage into the suction line.

Correction A. Fill the system, with the type of fluid recommended, to the proper leveL B, Tighten the suction line connection.

PROBLEM 11. Loader arms not lifting equally.

Possible Cause A. Air in one lift cylinder. B. Leak or restriction in one cylinder hose.

Correction A. FiU the system with fluid as reconunended to expel aU air. B. Check the hoses for leaks and obstructions. Replace "0"-rings and tighten hoses, as necessary.

PROBLEM 12. Lift cylinder rods settle into cylinder barrel.

Possible Cause A. Internal leakage of the control valve or piston packing in cylinder leaking.

Correction A. Perform the recommended testing of the cylinders and valve. Repair or replace the faulty component.

PROBLEM 13. Dump cylinder rod comes out of the cylinder barrel.

Possible Cause A. Internal leak^e of the control valve, or leaking piston packing in the cylinder.

Correction A. Test the control valve and the cylinders as recommended, and repair the faulty component.

PROBLEM 14. Loader does not have adequate lift or breakout capacity.

Possible Cause Correction A. Low system pressure. A. Refer to Problem No. 3, and correct as recommended.

PROBLEM 15. Boom drops when spool is in the "raise" position and the bucket spool is activated simultaneously.

Possible Cause A. Malfunction of the lift check valve.

Correction A. Test by activating boom spool to pressurize the rod-end and directing pressinre to this port. Leakage should not exceed 80 cc per minute at 1100 psi, but any indication of a malfunction should be apparent.

PROBLEM 16. Boom raises slowly and drops rapidly. Possible Cause A. Restrictor in the head-end of the lift cylinder circuit installed in reverse.

Correction A. Remove the restrictor from the boom head-end port of the control valve and reinstall properly.

PROBLEM 17. Erratic control valve action due to excessive spool displacement. Possible Cause Correction A. Spool snap ring broken or out of its groove. A. Replace or install the spool snap ring properly.

PROBLEM 18. Lack of spool "feel" when entering the self-level position. Possible Cause Correction A. Spool detent damaged. A. Repair or replace control valve, as necessary.

PROBLEM 19. Loss of spool locking action in the float position. Possible Cause Correction A. Spool detent dainaged. A. Repair or replace control valve.

PROBLEM 20. Self-level position in valve is not operative. Possible Cause A. Malfunction of the lift cylinder rod-end circuit safety relief valve.

Correction A. Perform test of circuit special relief valve or testing of main line maximum relief pressxme for indication of special relief valve failure. Repair dr replace special relief valve. PROBLEM 21. Lift cylinder rapid leak-down.

Possible Cause A. Malfunction of the lift cylinder head-end circuit special relief valve.

Correction A. Perform test of circuit special relief valve or testing of main line maximum relief pressure for indication of special relief valve failure. Repair or replace special relief valve.

PROBLEM 22. Bucket has insufficient dumping power. Possible Cause A. Malfunction of the primary self-level check valve.

Correction A. Direct pressure to bucket cylinder head-end port with valve spool in neutral. Leakage should not exceed 80 cc per minute at 1100 psi. Repair or replace valve.

PROBLEM 23. Bucket rolls forward when digging and lifting.

Possible Cause Correction A. Malfunction of external bucket cylinder rod-end relief valve. A. Test this external relief valve as recommended for special relief or "pop-off" valves. If opening pressure is less than repair

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Know your diesel engine

Low Fuel Economy The diesel engine has the ability to deliver fuel economy in the low to mid engine speeds when properly geared and used conservatively. New diesel owner expectations and poor driving habits usually contribute more to fuel economy dissatisfaction than any inherent defect in the design or faulty engine system. Most medium to heavy diesels make their best torque at 1800 - 2000 rpm, and that's where they should generally be driven to get the most fuel efficiency. A diesel injection system cannot deliver a "rich" or "lean" fuel mixture like a carburetor on a gasoline engine. A diesel has a wide open intake manifold and the cylinders draw in the same amount of air on each and every intake stroke whether the throttle is at idle or wide open (turbo-charged engines excepted). A small amount of fuel is delivered to each cylinder while idling and more fuel is progressively injected when the throttle is opened. So, lean or rich doesn't apply to a diesel engine operation. Adding more fuel by increasing the throttle will increase power, provided your engine can get enough air to efficiently burn that extra fuel. Fuel economy is determined more by the efficiency of the fuel delivery (injector atomization efficiency with no leaks between injection cycles), engine loads, injection timing, and the engine rpm operating range (diesel fuel combustion is more efficient at lower rpms). Any diesel that delivers poor fuel economy when driven conservatively has a problem in one of these other areas. Not from a pump delivering too much fuel. Diesel engines have about half the useable range as compared to a gas engine. A gas engine will produce acceptable fuel economy a fairly wide rpm range. The diesel engine has a relatively narrow rpm range that will produce acceptable fuel economy.

Items to check: 1- Air intake restriction, bad air filter. 2- Injection pump timing. 3- Injection pump fuel pressure and volume. 4- "Pop" test the injectors and check the spray patterns. 5- Turbo boost level. 6- Poor quality fuel. 7- Automatic over-drive transmissions not shifting into over-drive. 8- Lock-up torque converter not locking up. 9- Defective PCM (Electronic Control Module), "chip" program module, or inter-related system wiring. 10- Other truck related problems.

A problem with a bulldog tractor

Hi Don I was wondering if you could help me .I have a n model bulldog that does not seem to be getting enough fuel. Under heavy load it does not even blow any smoke I have set the governor to recommendations and checked the fuel coming out of the atomiser it appears to be spraying ok any ideas would be a great help . Thanks For your time I hope to here from you soon .Alan


Hi sorry Alan for the delay. Sounds to me like you have a carbonised up exhaust ports including muffler, worth checking remove exhaust and have a look? Could also be a blocked air cleaner? But more likely to be the exhaust.

By the way ( this sounds very dangerous, but need not be) Get your tractor out in the paddock pulling an implement that puts a good load on a low gear. Have someone reliable driving ...then walk out in front of the tractor and wind the atomiser in or out to get the best pulling power for that particular job. Thats the way it was always done in my time. When checking the atomiser spray make sure it is squirting all around not to just one side. Make sure you are using the right lubricating oil must be a light grade like 10-20 sae. Also remember these engine were designed to run on diesel fuel not distillate. what we now call diesel fuel was distillate back then I would imagine the old type diesel is hard to find so you need to add engine oil to the distillate say 5%? You may of course already know this. Let me know how you get on as I might be able to help further. regards Don McDouall

Chamberlain 306 brake problem

G'day Don, I have a brake locked on my Chamberlain 306. Tried several approaches so far to free it. Is there a special 'trick' I don't know about ?? hope you can help Richard

G`Day Richard... Sounds most likely that the band is stuck to the drum? Caused by oil (getting in from the transmission,check drain oil underneath make sure its clear) Or rusted on from lack of use or water getting in. Another cause is return springs weak or broken on centralisers. Then again it could be the ramp balls are jammed?

What I suggest is slacken right off or remove the brake rod . remove the access plate and then remove the nuts/springs on the band, perhaps remove the clevis pin then pry the band away from the drum. If the lining is worn away it would need replacing. if saturated in oil then perhaps spraying same with a good degreaser may get it free from grabbing. Check that the actuating rod moves the band properly when reassembled . If after this the brake continues to grab or lock on then you would need to take it all apart and check lining, drum, pivot points, a ramp up balls ( the latter is what moves the brake on and off.) Note to disassemble you need to remove the wheel. hope this helps regards don McDouall

Thanks for the reply Don, I’m sure its the ramp balls that are stuck and the only thing I can think of is using a chisel on it to try and turn it loose, but obviously this will damage the brake. any suggestions ?

Hi Richard. before using the chisel method i would try the following. Block up the drain hole at the bottom of the casing. then fill the cavity with kerosene , with say some penetrating oil such as penetrene mixed therein. If possible put in enough to cover the parts that contain the balls. Not having the tractor in front of me I dont know if the aforsaid is possible, but what would be possible would be to spray continuously the parts with penetrating oil. (you can buy bulk penetrene) You could catch as it drains and keep reusing.

Once you have done this & giving it plenty of time to penetrate. You would need to shock the parts. Mechanically you could do this with a blunt heavy chisel and a large hammer be very careful you do not chip the balls or where they ride? The other method worth a try is to heat the ball carrier so parts expand (hot enough to make water sizzle.) then cool down rapidly by spraying with water. Or make it very cold if you have access to CO2 spray the gas straight onto the part as it evaporates it will make the casting very cold. while you are doing any of this take the pressure off the actual brake band, usually by removing the clevis pin. As previously said if none of this works then the wheel needs to come off the get to the offending parts. then again I would persevere with trying to free it. The band can sometimes be stuck so make sure it is free. hope this helps & let me know how you get on regards Don

Again thanks for the reply Don, your suggestions are much appreciated I’m sure one way or another I will be able to sort it out now Cheers mate and good luck Richard

Ken wants to know how to adjust the PTO on a Chamberlain c670

The query is how to adjust the pto on a C670 tractor as far as I know the adjustments on your tractor is the same as on the other Chamberlain tractors models C6100- the 306 & the 354. There are 2 adjustments.

PTO Clutch adjustment Internal adjustment. Remove large plug in top of the fork housing. Using a hammer and a large screw driver. Tighten the locknut.

A force of around 40 lbs to engage or disengage on the hand lever with engine running is sufficient. Check that the pawls move correctly well onto the cone & are parallel when in the engaged position. Note... over-tightening when cold can result in only partial engagement. Make sure the hand lever does not foul the foot plate, in out & in positions. You adjust the operating rod to overcome any fouling. Check with this rod disconnected for a snap in or out of the spring loaded hand lever. Always make sure the correct oil type is used. Thickened oil from say the transmission will cause problems. Check there is a minimum of 10 thou clearance between pressure plate & clutch plates in the disengaged position.

If this doesnt solve the problem, then you need to pull the unit apart. Best done using a workshop manual, always make sure plates etc go back as they were. hope this helps don

how to remove brake parts from a Chamberlain C670

Hi Don, I am trying to remove the brake bands on a chamberlain c670. I have undone the back inspection plate and removed all of the pins. The brake band will not turn around the drum to be able to move it. The lugs on the brake band are jamming between the drum and the housing. The lugs appear to be too big. Is there a trick to removing this or will I have to remove the axle housing? Any help or ideas will be appreciated. Regards Mark

Hi Mark. 2 different types of brakes are found on the C670 or the C6100 Conventional shoes mechanical or the band method mechanical. on both you have to remove the wheels Yours evidently are the bands? Same as a 306 Chamberlain. With this system you need to remove the wheels , & the center casting undo the clevis and unscrew. remove all parts from the band return hooks. remove inspection cover. undo the allen screw and remove the pivot pin. pull out the half shaft far enough to clear the brake assembly then carefully remove the brake assembly through the housing.Comes out as a complete assembly. Note be very careful to note where shims are if used. Unless you have access to plenty of mechanical workshop equipment, don't pull it apart better to get a workshop to do it. Problems mainly associated with this brake system are the wear associated with the brake actuating method. This comprises 4 steel balls that ride in slots within a casting hub. these get stuck or get worn. The best manual to work on these brakes I have is called brake supplement for the Chamberlain 306. Tells you how to dismantle & assemble the band brakes.10 pages.

hope this is of help regards Don

Chamberlain 9G stiff steering

Hi Don This is Jenny Williams of Gayndah, Qld, i have just purchased a 9G and the steering isn"t working properly, it is very stiff, which book do i need to purchase to get the information i need on the steering? Can i download it? Your website is really great Regards Jenny

Jenny. There are two types of manual steering boxes fitted to the 9G. I assume yours isnt the industrial power steering?

Type A

Type B

you can tell the type you have by counting steering wheel turns lock to lock.

Before doing anything to the steering box check first the tyres are pumped up hard. then check drag link and tie rod ends for wear or tightness lack of grease etc. then check that the steering box has oil.

Hard steering problems associated with the box are usually due to wear of the ball bearings or the races or both.

if you dismantle the box take note where everything goes like shimms etc.

Replace all balls if any are damaged. make sure you use the right diameter balls & the right number of balls also note they are most likely Imperial size?

If balls are replaced nearly always you need to replace the races and any othe bearings within the box.

Reconditioned boxes are available on an exchange basis, you need to google for where. But they are not cheap. A Chamberlain manual is available from me . just ask and I will make sure it is up on this site.

My advice is not to try rebuilding without the manual, but you dont need a manual to check things out.

You have to remove the steering box to work on it. Hope this is of help regards Don MbCdouall

International 454 Dipstick problems

Hi Don

Matt Cook here I have an Inter 454 and both dipsticks (engine and trans.)

have been broken off and soldered back together.

The sticks that were put on I don't even think were the originals.

Anyway my question is do you have or could you tell me where to source

the specs for the length of the sticks and the location of the high and low marks?

I have an owners and workshop manual and neither have them, also have tried

Cornish's (a IH dealer) and they don't have the specs nor replacement ones and

they cant get them from Bearco either.

Kindest Regards

Matt Cook

G`Day Matt.

Go to your Inter manuals, look up the amount of oil required. Drain your engine & Transmission. Clean bungs thoroughly if you want to reuse the oil. Then replace the oil as recommended with exactly the required amount. LESS 1 Litre or one quart.

Note if you have imperial measurements in your manual then convert exactly into metric if you only have metric vessels.

Using a length of wire or something small enough & long enough to go into the Dipstick hole. Make a mark where the dipstick is going to rest or stop on the housing. Make a mark where the oil level is ( this will be your low level. Add the quart or litre, make a mark at full level. Transfer these marks to the material you are going to use as the dipsticks.

Above is a bit tedious but it is unlikely any manual will tell you the specs of the dipsticks Cheers Don

MF 135 breaking Fuel pump rotor.

HI don, my 135 has broken its injector pump rotor twice,what causes it to break? its a CAV pump. the second time,it broke i had just fitted a faulty valve seat on the cylinderhead. is there any relation btw the two? would love your opinion. Nick Eldoret Kenya

Hi Nick. Cannot tell you the actual cause. But certain items maybe at fault. First thing I would look at is backlash of the timing gears, if this is excessive it would throw an excessive load onto parts like the fuel pump. Remove the timing cover then rock the engine back and forth to see the backlash if any (there will be a little) If it is excessive you need to replace the offending timing gears Also look for wear or looseness around the actual pump drive gear.

The other thing ( but this should be obvious) is water in the fuel Water as such cannot pass through the pump it will lock it up. If the engine is running and water gets into the pump, the pump will lock The inertia most likely will then snap the weakest link. Just a teaspoon full of water will cause this.

Hope this was of help regards Don

Chamberlain crane brake adjustment

G'Day don I have a yard crane that has a chamberlain tractor as it power plant . I'm not sure what model it is but it has a Perkins 4-236 in it and 6speed tranny. I want to adjust the brakes but am unsure what to adjust . It has 18-24 inch drums operated by a cam at the top. It seems to have 2 large adjusters nuts at the top either side of the cam, plus a small adjuster at the bottom aswell there is an adjuster wheel inside the drum at the bottom. What is the correct method. Regards Jason

Hi Jason Not sure what model you have? Problem with cranes that used the Chamberlain tractor as the prime mover was the manufacturer would order a tractor with an engine of smaller capacity then the agriculture type. When you say you Have a 6 speed transmission I assume you have a 3 speed box into a 2 speed second box. If so you have the 6G transmission (9g had the 3 speed going into a 3 speed hence the 9 gears.) Again the Perkins 4.236 could be a later addition? Taking the place of a Perkins L4 or a 270D ? Tractors as the 306-354 had the 9 speeds.

So you need to work out from the following how to adjust brakes

First with all check that all linkages are working , not binding or badly worn correct this first. Next disconnect the linkage where it enters the brakes

If you have the type that shows 2 large nuts turn these back and forth making sure they can turn freely. Next back off the bottom adjustment fully.

Next turn one of the large nuts until the shaft sits nicely into the cam with out being tight and lock up with the locknut tight. Do the same with the other and lockup.Always make sure the locknut is dead tight. check that action of the cam moves the shoes back and forth freely. Next adjust the bottom until a slight drag ( lock right up then back off until a slight drag) Do the same to both wheels Then adjust the brake linkages evenly to take up the slack until you have about A quarter of the brake pedal movement as free movement. Making sure each pedal is the same in movements

If liners are worn out they need replacing you wont get good brakes with badly worn liners.

There is another type that uses a brake band, but I don’t think that is yours?

Again there is even another type with just one cam to each brake. I would need more info if this is your type. Hope this was of help Regards Don

Farmliner 445 DT fuel problems

Hi Don,

I came upon your website while trying to track down a manual for my Universal Farmliner 445DT tractor.

I am currently experiencing problems with this tractor and I was hoping that you may be able to offer some words of wisdom?

When this tractor is used on flat ground, there is no problem. However, as soon as the ground slopes up or sideways (doesn't happen when going downhill), the tractor stops.

Once this happens, I need to crack the injectors to bleed the fuel line in order for the tractor to start again.

I'm thinking that this could possibly be due to a problem with the fuel tank (rust in the tank, affecting pick up). However, today I've removed the fuel to investigate this option and the tank doesn't have much (if any) rust flakes so I'm starting to think that this isn't the cause of the problem.

Any suggestions or tips you may have would be greatfully appreciated!!

With thanks,

Grant Wells

G`Day Grant

Your problem could be one of a few things.

First I would check the fuel line from the lift pump to any filter that is in the suction line and onto the tank. Check for partial blockage, external leaks etc. Then look at the fuel pipe connections to the tank, any of this pipe that would be above the fuel at certain angles is suspect especially for hairline cracks, you need to really look at every joint and every bit of pipe that when the tractor is level is immersed under the fuel, but when the angle changes is above, if there is a leak here then that is your problem. (the lift pump will always suck air in preference to a solid) An easy way to check the line from the lift pump to the tank Is to replace it with a tempory plastic fuel pipe, just feed this into the top of the tank immersed below the fuel. If the system still sucks air then it is the lift pump. Even a pump that cannot pressurise the fuel could be the reason. Many years ago I had a recurring problem with a truck at anytime time it would suddenly stop. Had the tank off many times. Finally found the reason a small gum leaf the suction would grab it now and then But don’t think that is your problem

Any problems between the lift pump and the fuel pump will show up as fuel leaks Hope this was of help Cheers Don

Perkins 270D crankshaft bearings?

Hi Don , I am rebuilding a 270d Perkins can you tell me if the big end and main bearings were undersize would it be marked on the shells,thanks for your time. Regards, Lincoln Lee.

Hi Lincoln I would say yes. but then again it depends on who made the bearing? about the only real way you could tell would be to measure the crank shaft std mains are 2.99825/2.9985 std conrod are 2.74825/2.749 inch you can get 10-20-30 oversize hope this helps don

What may be worth knowing is there are more then one type of conrod bearing fitted to these engines. also note the following

CRANKSHAFT REGRINDING The fillet radii of the Four 270D crankshaft has been cold rolled to add bending fatigue strength. Regrinding of the crankshaft will practically remove the beneficial effects of cold rolling and as this effect is necessary in the Four 270D engine, it is essential that unless rerolling equipment is available, fitting of a replacement crankshaft should be carried out with a crankshaft obtained from F. Perkins Ltd.

International 300 tractor hard to start.

Hi Don,

I have a carburettor problem (?) with my old 300 IH Utility tractor.

I readjusted the float measurements and it runs fine once I get it going. I can stop and restart it while using it, but if it sits a day or more it won't start on it's own.

To start it, I have to take out a spark plug and inject some gas into the cylinder. Trying it start it the normal way the spark plugs will be dry. Gas can be dripping out of the carb but the spark plugs will be dry.

Once I have gas in the cylinder, it starts right up and runs great.

I checked the choke and that seems to be closed. What should I check next?

Thanks, Penny H.

Hi Penny. sounds to me like the engine has one of two or both problems 1# very poor compression If this is the case the engine cannot suck in any fuel at start. if you dont have a method of testing an easy way is remove the plugs inject some engine oil but no petrol replace the plugs and try to start in the normal way usng the choke. If the engine then starts it is for sure worn out bore or piston rings, or valves not sealing 2# a loose Carby or inlet manifold but this is not likely unless there is a lot of back firing when running get back to me as to how you went?

worth checking also is the fuel pump if fitted ? and also try blocking the carby with some rag as you turn the engine over If it starts then, it is the choke or leaks between the carby & manifold or between the head & inlet manifold. As this tractor uses a up draught carby there can be air leaks anywhere between the fuel bowl right up to where the manifold fits the block, so check at each join there are many, also the choke shaft might be worn? but using rag to block the air inlet will prove that. One other thing that makes life difficault with updraught carbies are such things as worn valve guides combined with valves that are not seating well With such an old tractor as yours and as you say it runs ok once started, you might not want to spend money on it. So if you prove that adding oil via the spark plug holes made it start ( all this does is make it possible for the engine to obtain a partial vaccum within the inlet manifold whic is a must for an updraft carby.}you could instead of doing that add engine oil to your petrol say at a ratio of 30:1 much like a 2 stroke mixture, this will tend to smoke at the exhaust, but when the engine stops oil will be left around the rings and on the cylinder walls. Most mechanics would shun this idea but it is worth doing in place of expensive rebuilds. regards Don

Tractor hydraulic problem

On Sun, Jul 10, 2011 at 9:48 PM, Don Eversole

Hello, hope you can help me.The 3pt lift stopped working, I figured out that if I move my bucket control lever just a little it raises fine and will stay. The front loader isn't as strong as it has been and power steering is hard sometimes but usually starts working ok except with a heavy load, (round bale). Any input would be appreciated. Fluid and filter have been changed no difference . Don

Hi Don. Start from the least expensive. 1# Check your pump suction line, making sure any joints in the pipeline above oil are sealed check suction strainer. 2# Check pump relief valve that it doesn't have something holding the valve off its seat under load? 3# Using a pressure gauge check the pump under load, fit the gauge anywhere between pump and its load.If it is 10% below recommended pressure then it is most likely a worn pump or a leak somewhere on the pressure side.

to rectify. there is really only one way to fix a worn pump, that is with a new one. Hydraulic priority is usually giving to the steering, so if it is hard to steer you can be sure it is because of low oil pressure. Again if you know what you are doing you can repair a pump, but with labour costs as they are now it could be false economy to farm it out. Or perhaps locate a secondhand one from a wreckers. with the relief valve look for a worn or broken spring , check the actual valve faces if worn they can be refaced sometimes.

With old tractors vibration can make pipeline come loose, so check and rectify any that seem to be that way. A hairline crack might not be visible but leaks under pressure. such pipeline might be below the oil level then it is hard to see... foam and bubbles are a good indicator of this problem.

Because you have the problem in more then one application you can rule out worn cylinders, but if you have a control valve that is multi meaning it controls more then on application then it is a suspect too. Check for "0" ring wear etc.

A quick easy way to see if it is pump pressure is to use a heavier oil. It will not hurt the system. Just use a non detergent oil around 50 sae, or add a oil stabiliser/thickener to the existing oil this can be got from various suppliers "BARS" make one if you use it add sufficient to the oil required mix well before adding ( drain oil mix it then replace)

Just remember this oil change might help a lot, but it doesnt fix the real problem. hope this is of help cheers Don

Fiat 615 jerky hydraulic linkage

Gday don i have a 615 fiat tractor and the hydraulics are very jerky when i lift something heavy and it increases with engine rpm i have cleaned the filter and filled up the oil do you have any clues

Thanks johno....

Hi Johno First make sure the right type of oil is there and filled up to required level. That all filters both pressure and suction are clear... Then check any suction plumbing that is above the oil level, or will be when the linkage is in the up position for leaks.... just a small air leak will cause the problem you have..... Check relief valve for a broken spring etc other reasons can be ... faulty adjustment of the control valve/spool... drain valve leaking or stuck.... poor sealing of seals or valves to lift cylinder....

But the most likely is air getting into the pump, this can be from a broken gasket damaged seals or excessive vacuum due to heavy oil or an obstruction within the suction line. hope this is of help regards don

Timing perkins 6-306/354 fuel pump

Could you please refresh my memory on timing a c6100 injection pump please . Have to do one for my cousin & its along time since I have done one & the old memory aint as good as it used to be . Thanking you in anticipation .....

Hi Darryl its straight forward... the fuel pump spline can only go in one way, as you will see a spline tooth is missing?

If all the timing has been lost then this may help.... Fuel Pump Timing : There are a number of timing marks pertaining to the fuel pump, which when aligned in the correct manner, ensure the fuel pump is timed to the engine correctly..... -

Firstly, with No. 1 piston al T.D.C. on compression and with the fuel pump removed, the slot in the fuel pump drive hub should be aligned with the slot in the fuel pump adaptor plate.....

If these slots are not in line, remove the auxiliary drive gear cover plate from the front of the timing case, release the three securing setscrews of the gear and turn the auxiliary drive shaft until the slots line up. Re-tension the setscrews fo 20-22 lbs./ft........

Secondly, on the fuel pump rotor, inside the fuel pump, are a number of scribed lines, each one bearing an individual letter. At the static timing point, the scribed line 'F' on the rotor should be aligned with the end of the circlip which has a straight edge, the other end having a curved edge, Thirdly, a scribed line on the fuel pump mounting flange and another on the fuel pump adapter plate. When the fuel pump is fitted to the engine, before tightening the securing nuts, these two scribed lines should be aligned with each other. hope this is of help regards Don

Adjusting the PTO clutch on a Chamberlain 6c100 etc


I have a Chamberlain C670 in which the PTO continuaaly runs. The clutch was replaced in the PTO 2 yrs ago. Does the manual for the C670 cover in detail the method of adjusting the PTO so that I can stop it running. I saw your answer to Ken regarding the PTO but require more detail.


Kevin Wilson.........

Hi kevin I assume you mean it continues to run under load? (turning with no load is often a possible, not much you can do for that)...

First make sure the oil used is of the right type....Therefor a low viscocity, high index anti foaming type....

That the box is not over filled?.... Next check the PTO clutch adjustment...remove the large plug & using a hammer and drift. Release the locknut and adjust the hand lever to no more then a 40lb pressure needed to engage the clutch... do this with a spring balance type weight measure ... dont guess....

There should be about a 10 thou clearance between plates when disengaged.....

The C670 or the C6100 service will not tell you much, the best manual for what you want is the chamberlain 306-354 workshop this tells you how to set up the pto clutch etc.... hope this is of help regards Don

perkins fuel pump timing

Could you please refresh my memory on timing a c6100 injection pump please . Have to do one for my cousin & its along time since I have done one & the old memory aint as good as it used to be . Thanking you in anticipation . Darryl Ding.

Hi Darryl its straight forward... the fuel pump spline can only go in one way, as you will see a spline tooth is missing?

If all the timing has been lost then this may help.... Fuel Pump Timing : There are a number of timing marks appertaining to the fuel pump, which when aligned in the correct manner, ensure the fuel pump is timed to the engine correctly. -

Firstly, with No. 1 piston al T.D.C. on compression and with the fuel pump removed, the slot in the fuel pump drive hub should be aligned with the slot in the fuel pump adaptor plate.

If these slots are not in line, remove the auxiliary drive gear cover plate from the front of the timing case, release the three securing setscrews of the gear and turn the auxiliary drive shaft until the slots line up. Re-tension the sefscrews fo 20-22 lbs./ft.

Secondly, on the fuel pump rotor, inside the fuel pump, are a number of scribed lines, each one bearing an individual letter. At the static timing point, the scribed line 'F' on the rotor should be aligned with the end of the circlip which has a straight edge, the other end having a curved edge, Thirdly, a scribed line on the fuel pump mounting flange and another on the fuel pump adapter plate. When the fuel pump is fitted to the engine, before tightening the securing nuts, these two scribed lines should be aligned with each other. hope this is of help regards Don

hydraulic problems

Gday don ihave a615 fiat tractor and the hydraulics are very jerky when i lift something heavy and it increases with engine rpm i have cleaned the filter and filled up the oil do you have any clues

Thanks johno

Hi Johno First make sure the right type of oil is there and filled up to required level. That all filters both pressure and suction are clear. Then check any suction plumbing that is above the oil for leaks just a small air leak will cause the problem you have. Check relieve valve for broken spring etc other reasons can be ... faulty adjustment of the control valve/spool drain valve leaking or stuck poor sealing of seals or valves to lift cylinder.

But the most likely is air getting into the pump, this can be from a broken gasket damaged seals or excessive vacuum due to heavy oil or an obstruction within the suction line. hope this is of help regards don

McCormick tractor transmission problems

Hi Don

I have a McCormick International A414 tractor that won't move.

It happened when I turned up the wrong row in our vineyard and I tried to reverse back but nothing happened - gears appear to engage but there is no movement of the wheels only a slight grinding noise coming from the gearbox. I have tried every combination of Hi Lo with 1-2-3-4 but no movement.

Any clues would be much appreciated.

Hi John sounds like serious trouble. 1#.the centre of the clutch plate has torn out. 2# the input shaft (spigot shaft) that takes the drive from the clutch plate to the gearbox has broken or the gear that is a part of this shaft has lost teeth, 3# The output shaft from the gears to the differential has broken or lost teeth say on the pinion. 4# the final drive has lost drive

With a good light you maybe able to see into the clutch housing to see if the the input shaft revolves with engine running. There might be a plate or the top of the gear box that will allow you to see what is revolving when the box is in neutral and then in a gear. again there might be somewhere , where you can see into final drives etc.

You might with a stethoscope be able to work out just where the grinding noise is located . But sadly It looks like you will need to dismantle the tractor . but before you do try to locate where the problem is.... no sense in splitting the tractor to get to the clutch if it is a broken axle, or the opposite actions if you know what I mean. hope this was of some help regards Don mcDouall

might sound silly but are you sure you are not locked into say reverse , at the same time as you are trying or are engaging another gear can happen ?

fordson which series is it?

Hi Don , my name's Frank . I've got an old F Major diesel no other model or description available but it has a lever to actuate the starter motor. Great old tart and heaps of power despite age I need to buy a CD of the w/shop manual. Firstly to renew the right hand steering brake ( obviously the most used side in broadacre farming) , and then to have on hand to fix wear n tear over the next few years. Your price is great at 20 bucks, but I cant decide which of the listed ones to get . Please drop me a line with your best guess and I'll order it ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Thanks for your site, it's a treat in this day and age,,,,,,,,,,,,,Regards Frank

Hi Frank well !!! one must say well . If you were to go into google picture search and search for fordson major....then fordson major new...then ... power major ...then... fordson major super you might be able to identify your model. The old 1945-50 Major had a diesel Perkins P6 engine. Then in 1952 the model new major came out... this had Fords own engine... this model about 1954 was updated to the power major which was much the same tractor. then the last of that series (major) the super major The Dexta in each model was just a smaller version.

I would say you would be safe with the Cd for the Fordson New Major, the power Major & the super Major All had lever actuated start motors, but cannot remember if all were foot or some were hand operated? hope this is of help regards Don mcDouall

Massey Harris 33 transmision oil capacity?

Hello Don,

Here's hoping you can help,I am in the process of changing the rear end oil in my fathers old tractor it was full of water from sitting outside.....I picked up Tractor Hydraulic 80/90 Gear oil and would like to know how much the rear end needs to fill up to check hole on the side. Thank you Helen from New Brunswick ,Canada

Hi Helen. Checked my records but came up with nothing. What I suggest as it was already full of water. Put the drain plug back in. then measure how much water is needed to fill up to the level plug. Then drain right out leaving it to drain over night. A better Idea would be to use kerosene (paraffin I think your way) or diesel fuel again fill up to plug then drive around to get any water still in bearings etc into the solvent and then drain, Dont of course drive around if you used water, or gasolene ? Hope this is of help regards Don

removing Starter motor on a 40K

Hi Don

I have a Chamberlain 40KA converted to a super 70 that has a delko remmy starter motor on it. I am having trouble getting the starter motor off as there is not enough clearance between the oil cooler. The ironic thing is that I had it off about 6 months ago but can't for the life of me work out how to get it off again. Just wondering if you have any idea on how to get it off. PLEASE.

Hi. A bit hard to follow, not seeing it. I assume you mean the 40KA engine has gone replaced by??? Again I assume a detroit GM or is it a Meadows? would need to know before I can offer any advice regards Don

Farmall cub wiring

We recently bought an old 1949 Farmall cub. My husband rebuilt the hydraulic box and in doing so , disconnected the wiring. We haven’t been able to get the wiring correct. The tractor runs great but drains the battery after a few minutes run time. The tractor has been converted from a 6 volt to a 12 volt. We have had the starter and alternator checked and both are working properly. Below is how we have it wired.


Positive battery cable to starter (heavy gauge wire) Starter to resister resister to coil Coil to positive terminal on amp meter


Light switch to positive terminal on amp meter


Negative terminal on amp meter to alternator

Can you tell us what we are doing wrong?

Hi JoAnn

One assumes your tractor has coil ignition not a magneto?

Go back to basics. First you need a ignition circuit

Note use a negative earth system { some early stuff was positive earth}

So negative battery terminal to earth (or ground) best place always for this is a bolt that holds the starter motor on this lead needs to be of copper and can carry 250 amps for a short time.

Another heavy lead to the starter motor terminal From this terminal with much smaller wire go the ignition switch From the right ignition terminal wire to positive (+) side of coil Then wire from (-) side of coil to contact points. That circuit is now complete…. Check there is no spark at contact points when ignition switch is off.

Charging circuit

Heavy wire from main alternator terminal to positive side of ampmeter Then from negative side the same gauge wire to the terminal on the starter motor

The alternator field coil wire goes to ignition switch so it is not active when ignition is off..

Starting circuit If there is a button then it is just a wire from starter terminal to button another wire to live terminal on solonoid pressing button completes the circuit. If starting is with the ignition switch then it’s the same except the switch contacts take the place of the button. If you are novices with this I suggest you keep each circuit separate from the other.

Use an inline fuse on each one.

It sounds like you have a dead short that you cannot see Normally if you were draining a fully charged battery within a few minutes it would be very obvious…. Very hot wiring etc.

First make sure that when you start the engine, the starter stops motoring. Once engine has started… it might be running all the time.

That is about the only thing that can drain a battery fast other then a dead short To test for such a large or heavy short … run engine then feel various components Such as the starter, battery leads both, alternator, around the instruments Also check that the battery itself has not got an internal cell shorting out?

About all I can suggest I have attached a wiring diagram that may help Regards Don McDouall

I can’t express how much I appreciate your time and expertise in explaining this. Now to get my husband to pull the tractor apart again! God bless you.

Much Thanks, Joann

Please see questions below. After reviewing your email, we need some clarification to be sure we understand all the connections.

If you do a “Reply”, then click your curser after the question, it will allow you to type in your answers

Hi JoAnn

One assumes your tractor has coil ignition not a magneto? Yes, it has a coil. It has also been converted from a 6 volt to a 12 volt system.

Go back to basics. First you need a ignition circuit Note use a negative earth system { some early stuff was positive earth}

So negative battery terminal to earth (or ground) best place always for this is a bolt that holds the starter motor on this lead needs to be of copper and can carry 250 amps for a short time. By this you mean bolt the negative feed to the tractor frame at the starter, not the terminal......... Is this correct? Another heavy lead to the starter motor terminal Where does this heavy lead come from that you connect to the starter terminal? From the starter terminal with much smaller wire go the ignition switch Positive or negative terminal on the ignition switch?? From the right ignition terminal wire to positive (+) side of coil Is the right ignition terminal the positive side? Then wire from (-) side of coil to contact points. Contact points is the distributor That circuit is now complete…. Check there is no spark at contact points when ignition switch is off.

If the negative battery terminal is connected to the starter bolt, then to what is the positive battery terminal connected?

Charging circuit

Heavy wire from main alternator terminal to positive side of ampmeter We have a single phase alternator. Only one terminal. Can you explain how to hook up a single phase alternator?

Then from negative side the same gauge wire to the terminal on the starter motor

The alternator field coil wire goes to ignition switch so it is not active when ignition is off..

Starting circuit If there is a button then it is just a wire from starter terminal to button another wire to live terminal on solonoid pressing button completes the circuit. If starting is with the ignition switch then it’s the same except the switch contacts take the place of the button. The tractor has a on/off pull switch. You pull the switch out to crank, then you have a rod that is connected to the starter that you pull. This depresses a button on the starter that causes the starter to turn over. Can you please explain how to wire this setup? Please specify whether negative or positive terminals.

If you are novices with this I suggest you keep each circuit separate from the other.

Use an inline fuse on each one.

It sounds like you have a dead short that you cannot see Normally if you were draining a fully charged battery within a few minutes it would be very obvious…. Very hot wiring etc.

First make sure that when you start the engine, the starter stops motoring. Once engine has started… it might be running all the time.

That is about the only thing that can drain a battery fast other then a dead short To test for such a large or heavy short … run engine then feel various components Such as the starter, battery leads both, alternator, around the instruments Also check that the battery itself has not got an internal cell shorting out?

Hi see below Tried the cusor idea but no joy.

1# Most old vehicles have been changed to 12 volts mainly because 6 volt batteries are hard to find, also the extra voltage help to start etc. all that is changed is the charging method therefor a 12volt generator or alternator and coil and any bulbs that is all.

2# The heavy wire from the negative battery terminal goes to earth… best earth is a bolt that is holding the starter motor onto the engine or any bolt that is close by…. This is to keep the resistance as low as possible.

3#\ The heavy lead from the positive side of the battery goes to the terminal that is the input terminal of the starter motor….. or the solenoid that actuates the starter motor….. there is always a terminal for this and it is the same terminal that all socalled live wires are connected to therefor the positive wires.

4# you take a wire from the above mentioned terminal to the switch it will go to a switch terminal that can be marked various ways. It is usually the more robust of the switch terminals… might be marked as + or ign or bat. If there is one marked bat or + and also one marked ign then it does not go to ign.

5# Most coils are marked at the terminals as + or -- or A – B or ign – contact Sometimes hard to see… also make sure you are using a 12 volt coil not a 6 volt one If in doubt get another coil from the wreckers they are everywhere as not used on modern vehicles. The live wire from ignition switch goes to the positive side + or A or Ign The wire on the other coil terminal goes to the contact points.

6# Yes the terminal on side of the distributor… make sure it is not shorting out at that terminal should be no spark if points are held open but a spark can be flicked on the earth if points are closed and ignition is on.

7# Positive battery lead goes to the starter terminal…. Not earth

8# You have a more modern alternator the wire from it Goes to the positive side of the ampmeter then the same thickness wire goes from the other amp meter terminal to the starter terminal that is connected to the positive battery terminal. All live wires or the wires that are doing work come off the amp meter terminal To which the alternator wire is attached. Therefor the lights etc

Except for the starting circuit (about 250 amps) use a fuse for each circuit. On old vehicles inline fuses are best easy to locate a fault etc.

use a heavy fuse 50 amp etc for the alternator circuit then the rest could be 15 or 20 amp

9# the pull switch ? don’t know would have to be an ignition switch? Or perhaps the one that makes the starter terminal active? Would need a picture to say just what it is doing See sketch for the rod actuated starter motor All active live wires are positive Note each circuit must have a return to earth of negative side to complete regards don

We wired the tractor per your instructions. The only thing that we were not sure of was the button you pull out to crank the tractor (one that makes the starter terminal active). You pull out the button, then pull the rod that cranks the tractor. My husband says positive/negative connections on this on/off switch should not matter since it is an on/off switch.

We have a wire connecting the solenoid/starter to on/off pull button terminal. The other on/off terminal button is connected to the coil

Is this correct?

The tractor cranks and runs, but the amp meter is reading on the negative. Is this correct reading for a negative earth system?

Hi Joan One assumes the pull push switch to the starter solenoid is to activate the solenoid With all switches or circuits using a battery you have a live wire from the positive battery terminal going to the switch or device the switch or device completed either by a wire going back to the negative battery terminal or what is much more common to ground or earth this being the metal of the tractor that the battery terminal is attached to via a heavy cable. Re the amp meter reading.... start the tractor let it only idle, then watching the amp meter rev it up, if needle moves to the negative side then remove both wires that are the alternator circuit and replace on the amp meter in reverse... the needle should then show a positive charge reading when revved up. if no amp reading when the engine is reved up, look for such things as a loose fan belt or wiring is wrong.... remember to charge the battery the current has to flow into the battery thorough the positive terminal then back out via the negative terminal to earth which is also the body of the alternator... Important any part of the wiring circuit that is not positive to negative , but the other way round is a short. seriously can be a dead short that will burn out the wire or what it activates. regards don

Champ 9g clutch problems

Hi Don, I'm having some problems with the clutch on my Chamerlain 9g. Sometimes I push it in and it works OK, I can get it in to gear and drive off. Sometimes when I go to stop and push the clutch in it does not disengage and wants to keep going. Other times when I am trying to select a gear when stationary the clutch will not disengage and I cannot get the gear. Do you think it could be a problem with the clutch unit or maybe just out of adjustment ? Could you let me know the proper procedure for adjustment if you think this could be the problem ? I look forward to your reply. Thanks in advance, John. W.A. .............................................................. Hi John below is the method to adjust note both the clutch and clutch brake need to be adjusted. 'hope this helps regards don mcdouall

Adjustment: Periodically check the pedal adjustment, Press the pedal downward by hand until the resistance to movement sharply increases, indicating that the throw-out bearing has made contact with the clutch release levers. The distance the pedal moves before contact is made should be 1" to 2" and should not be allowed to reduce to less than 1". Should the measurement reduce to zero severe wear and clutch slippage will result.

To adjust the pedal, slacken the two locknuts on either side of the block on the clutch link (on the inside of the chassis, under the footplate), adjust them to suit, then re-tighten.

Clutch Brake Adjustment. As the lining wears, or if the main clutch is adjusted, if will become necessary to adjust the clutch brake, After adjusting the main clutch, check the clutch brake linkage- With the clutch engaged (pedal released), the small lever on the clutch brake screw {protruding from the side of the gearbox) should be at an angle of approximately 90° to the spring loaded link. If necessary slacken the bolt in the cross-shaft lever slot and adjust to suit. Retighten the bolt and fully depress the clutch pedal. In this position the cross-shaft lever should compress the springs on the link by moving ½ to 1" away from the lower stop nut. If neces-sary slacken the locknut on the brake adjusting screw and adjust the slotted screw to suit. Re-tighten the lock nuT and re-check the linkage movement. .......................................................... Thank you very much Don. ........................................................

Hi Don,

My gearbox oil on my recent Nuffield 342 purchase is looking a little low.

I have organised to purchase the workshop manual and operators manual from the U.K. recently and am still waiting on them to arrive.

I wanting to do some work with tractor over the weekend and am looking for a recommendation on transmission oil to purchase so that I can top it up.

Whilst you at it a recommendation on grease for my slasher gearbox and some grease to lubricate the appropriate points on the tractor would also be appreciated.

Thanks for your help.


Gavin ........................................................... Hi Gavin a bit late as my connection has been down for a few days. A 90-140 oil would be ok. I would imagine the slasher g/box should have oil? If so the 90/140 oil would be ok If grease any multi purpose grease will do for both g/box and and greasing pionts. hope this was of help regards Don

Hi Don,

No problems.

Thanks once again for your help.

Kind Regards,


Don I am wondering if you have any parts for this old chamberlain around 1958 - 60 I think it has the 270 Perkins motor

Chasing a crowd cylinder as one of mine has sustained barrel damage the crowd cylinder barrel measures 19and a quarter inches long with a 4 inch bore and the rod is 2 inches in diameter chasing seals as well if you've got them let me know what you've got I am also chasing other bits and pieces here from you soon

Regards Anthony Prowse

sorry... but i dont sell parts don

Chamberlain 306 steering problems

Hi Don,

I have a problem with my chamberlain 306, the steering is hard to turn in both directions particularly to the right. with effort the steering wheel will turn to the left without the wheels turning. The hydraulic pump works perfectly and i can not find any external leaks between the pump and ram. where else might the problem be coming from, is it likely to be in the steering box or the ram or something else again?

Any help would be much appreciated. Thank You, Bob....... Hi Bob. Sounds a bit like the hose connections are wrong? First jack up the front wheels clear of the ground with the wheels in the center position.(straight ahead) next with the engine stopped loosen off the hoses going to the steering ram then manually turn the wheels

to say first to the left and note on paper which pipe fitting leaks out oil... double check by turning the wheels to the right the other one should now leak or spurt out oil.

put the wheels back in the center and tighten up the hose fittings. start the tractor and then loosen off both fittings to the steering ram just a bit. next turn the steering wheel to the right and if the connection is correct oil should spurt out of the connection of the steering ram that squirted oil out when you turned the wheels before to the left therefore the opposite ? if this is correct then the hoses are on the right way around.

If because of length etc the hoses to the ram can only go on one way. then look to where they are fitted at the steering box ?

get back to me if this was not the problem and we can go in deeper so to speak.

dont forget while the wheels are off the ground move steering back and forth to purge out the air... noting to keep the reservoir full up all the time. regards don.

Brake seal problems

Hello Don, I have a query regarding the wet brake system on the Ford 4600 tractor. I bought a 1980 Ford 4600 two years ago which I use only seasonally for turning hay and transporting hay bales. I have had an almost constant problem with tearing and leaking brake rod seals since buying this tractor. I have had to have to have the rubber boot brake rod seals replaced 3 times on one side and twice on the other side in two years. This tractor is used only occasionally. It is not a problem of the rubber boot brake rod seals getting worn and leaking. It is a problem of these seals tearing and leaking. My query is , What is causing the seals to tear ? It is a messy and expensive problem as although the seals themselves are not expensive , the labour fitting cost and replacement transmission oil are. The fitter is using the New Holland replacement rubber boot brake rod seals . Are some types of these seals made of better grade rubber than others ? Any help you could give would be much appreciated...........

Hi James... first sorry for the delay in answering. I would look closely at the surfaces of the brake rod itself, any scores or if the rod is perhaps chrome plated some might be missing making the rod able to corrode when not used, especially if it is above the oil level when the tractor is stopped... sounds to me like the rod is sticking to the seal, then when actuated the seal moves with the rod. look hard at the rod surface for small pits etc use a magnifying glass, these might rust and stick, but when you take apart it is no longer visible.

Another thing you could try is to coat the inside of the replacement seal and the rod with some molybdenumdisulphide grease or even mix some graphite powder with a little thick grease... making sure it stays just there... yes I know most tractor mechanics will frown upon anything added to the oil, but it is well worth trying. Or perhaps replace the rod? In all it sounds to me like the rod sticking to the seal caused most likely from condensation forming rust over a long period of no use.... this might also help ... at the end of use engage the brakes and tie down in the engaged position until you want to use it again, have never tried it for wet brakes, but it use to be a common method used for wet clutch problems back many years ago.... last but not least make doubly certain the seal you are using is for your setup...could be that the center hole is not the right size for your rod? when oiled should be an easy sliding fit.... perhaps try a different brand? hope this was of help regards Don

Lost power in Diesel engine?

Hi Don … thought you may be able to help me with a power issue with my MF 4cylinder diesel. First I’ll give you a bit of a run down. The tractor was running ok but had done plenty of work and was losing oil from the front and rear oil seals, so I decided to give it an overhaul from the bottom up, did pretty much everything, reground crank, new sleeves, pistons ,rings, replaced a couple of valves, hand ground the others in, etc, but I did not replace the injectors because it ran ok before. It starts ok with a small squirt of aerostart, runs clean, misses occasionally and is fine for general farm work but when I use the 4ft slasher it lacks the old power it had. It’s well run in but I have to keep using the clutch to let the revs build before I can continue on the same vegetation it would do easily before.

I don’t think its timing because it can be intermittent and I’ve noticed that on some days when I’m heading up to the house (it’s quite a rise) it will pull up the hill fine in 2nd high and then the next day it will just run out of power and does not respond to more accelerator and I have to change down to a lower gear to get up the same hill it did easy the day before. It seems fuel related but I just can’t seem to track down where the problem is. This is what I have checked so far … the air cleaner, there is no restriction there … the fuel outlet which seems ok, but no longer has a filter at that point … the lift pump seems to deliver plenty of fuel if I take out the bleed screw on the body of the injector and turn the motor over, all the fuel filter were renewed when I did up the motor. I guess it’s possible the injector pump is not performing up to scratch but it was working fine before the rebuild and I was careful not to get dirt into it when removed and reinstalled.

If you have any ideas as to how I can track down the problem it would be greatly appreciated.

Regards … Nick.........

Hi you say it sounds like a fuel problem...first of all it should start without the ether. but that isnt the problem you are referring to... Assuming the fuel tank is above the engine , you can do away with the lift pump go directly to the fuel pump from the tank, if the tank has a tap? look for obstructing within the actual tap, some had a cork seal that literally falls to pieces from age. Look for something in the tank like a gum leaf that will not float and every now and then will cover over the outlet hole... look at the fuel cap does it seal the tank?... it shouldn't.a bleed hole should allow air into the tank.

An easy way to check if there is an obstruction between the fuel tank and the fuel pump is to rig up a separate fuel tank tied onto the hood if it works ok then.... then you know it is a problem between tank and pump.

If all that doesn't solve the problem look for a blocked return fuel line? that's the line running back to the tank from each injector... check where it returns to the tank.

If none of the above works and you are dead sure your fuel pump and your valve timing is correct... then that only leaves the pump or the injectors if it is fuel?

Does it miss when running out of power?... if so then one or more injectors are playing up.

I doubt if it is the fuel pump but it is well worth looking for an obstructing where the fuel enters the pump/ It will not be where it comes out.

Also well worth looking at because you say it is missing at times are the valves all seating?... one or more valves might be a bit to tight then when the valve rotates the end is not dead square and the valve does not seat... better to have valves a bit loose then too tight.... well worth checking each valve when its mate is fully open... diesel engines dont backfire if one or more valves are not doing their job....get back to me as to how you get on regards don..... Hi Don ... great advice, just what I needed, I will work through your suggestions as a process of elimination, it's going to take me a little while as I'm a weekend hobby farmer but I will get on to it as soon as I can and let you know how I go. Hopefully I can get to the bottom of the problem. Thanks again for your help, much appreciated. Regards ... Nick

Ford 455 timing

I am working on a 445 injection pump and i need to know where the timing marks are at can you help please. thank you...Jess...

hi jess....not dead sure about the industrial version?

But this should suffice as it is the most common method on ford engines.

Remove the cable drive to hour meter that is at the rear where the pump fits the block.

Remove the plate.

Then on the right side of engine block remove the flywheel timing cover a small cover.

Turn engine clockwise until the mark on the flywheel is at

23 degrees before TDC and lines up with its mark on the block.

then go back to the fuel-pump .

A "V" punch mark on the gear attached to the pump should line up with

A mark on the housing ….

If not loosen off the 3 screws on the gear and rotate until marks line up exactly then

re-tighten tightly.

if yours is not this system get back to me and i will find any other method ford used regards don

Chamberlain C670 steering problem

G'day Don, I have a Chamberlain C670 and have just had the seals replaced in the power steering ram(Vickers S22N). The problem I have is that now I have put the ram back on the tractor, When I start the motor the steering just goes one way and you can not turn the other way. I have tried adjusting the ends of the ram to allow movement for the attaching arm but with no results. All hoses have been put back on the same as they came off. If you do change the hoses around steering just goes in opposite direction. Hope you can help us with this problem, Looking forward to your reply. Thank you from Ian........

Hi Ian ….this might fix it...assuming you have not done anything to anything other then the cylinder?

What has happened is it hasn’t been centered

First check that the system is in the neutral position when wheels are straight ahead?

Oil should freely return to the tank… should be no pressure on any hose.

If not then your booster spool is installed incorrectly.

Next make sure there is no air in the system?

If there is it will tend to kick the steering the wrong way.. so crack hoses to remove any air.

Cold oil will also tend to give trouble, but it is rare that it is cold enough where you are to cause this?

To check adjustment to the steering cylinder…

Jack front wheels off the ground.

Disconnect the drag link from the ball stud. Remove dust shield , the spring and shield

Next remove the set screw , usually square headed contained under the shield, then you can see the knurled centralizing nut .

Take the pressure off the ball stud so you can turn a small screw driver within the set screw hole ….

First turn the nut 1 turn clockwise if pulling to the left or 1 turn anti clockwise if pulling to the right … only move it a little at a time then persevere until you get it correct.

Note oil in system must be warm before you do this so run the tractor until it is so.

Note the set screw is under the dust cover.

Regards don

water entering engine via exhaust manifold

Hi Don Wondering if you had any advise on this one. Tractor had been left outside with no rain cap and not started for 3 years. Cannot turn crankshaft with starter motor (tested it) or with wrench and bar on crankshaft pulley. Tried jacking up one wheel at back and put in gear still could not rotate engine.

Hi Chris somehow your inquiry fell through the net so to speak. But never mind I answer here so it may help others . If water can get down a muffler stack it will find its way into the head, always some of the valves are open in a multi cylinder engine and so said water will run into the cylinder... In your case what you need to do is this .... remove injectors and put about a good cup full of kerosene into each cylinder with luck this will seep past the piston rings... next remover the valve rocker shaft and using a lever etc press down the valves in turn so see if or which valves might be stuck if with luck none are you can proceed to another method ..... remove all injectors ... obtain an old injector and adapt it so it can be used to inject oil through its body fill up each cylinder with kerosene / oil or distillate leave for a few hours to see which of the cylinder cannot hold the fluid... pick any cylinder where the piston is in an up position say near top or no more then half way down that is holding the liquid ,,, screw the the injector that has been adapted into this cylinder ... make sure both valves for that cylinder are closed they should be if the rocker gear is off ...then using a grease gun inject grease or oil into the cylinder that is already full... a grease gun can apply a pressure fare exceeding 1000 psi and with luck it will force the stuck piston down once moved you might then with a spanner on the crankshaft rock it back and forth until free... try these methods first because as most Perkins engines of that time were sleeved if you removed the head the sleeve will come out of the block if its stick to the rings, unless you hold the sleeve down. hope this is of help... sadly rust can play havoc with valves cylinders a piston rings but you never no your luck cheers don

Cham C670 oil pump

Hi Don, I have a c670 that when running is fine has high oil pressure. But when it is left for a few days without starting, will not pump the oil up. To get oil to pump I must remove the filter & tip oil down pickup then quickly replace filter & start tractor. Once this is done I can turn tractor off & back on, either cold or if tractor is warmed up. I can also leave off for a period of hours & restart with no problems. Was wondering if you had seen this problem before.

Hi Graham... sounds to me like you have an air leak on the suction side of the pump? You need to access it to check... some have a plate on the sump? others you need to remove the sump. Look for a leak in the pipe or a loose pipe the pump is not under the oil so relies on an airtight suction line.... what is happening is the oil runs back out of the pump when left for a while but cannot pick it back up ... sucking air instead. hope this is of help regards don

Steering Inter A414

G`day Don, I recently inherited an International A414 from my father inlaw , it seems to be in reasonably good nick , my problem is with the steering there is a full 180 degree free play in the steering wheel before it engages with the steering arms and in that free play the steering wheel and shaft travels up and down about 25 mm, to actually steer the tractor takes a great deal of effort and if the wheel hits any object it decides to go off in its own direction I feel I`m taking a risk every time I drive it ,which is not often, and getting to the steering box which is under the fuel tank is that the right way to access it and maybe what fault if any am I looking for. Cheers David

Hi David ... sounds to me like it may have collapsed within the housing... but try this first make sure the box itself is full of oil... then check and make sure the box is securely attached... might pay to get someone to turn the steering while you watch the box? there will be adjustments on the box to control the engagement of the inside gears you could try tighten these... get back to me if none of this helps and I will look up a steering box chart and let you know the problems regards don

................. HYDRAULIC PUMP PROBLEMS Hi there;

I had to replace the hydraulic pump on my tractor and now have air in the system. How can I get it out? Once I put on the new pump it worked for a few seconds then stopped again. I took off the top line from the pump and was going to put oil in it but it was full.

Thanks Ted


Hi Ted ... evidently your pump is above the oil in the tank? So if the pump is in good order ... look for leaks on the suction side of the pump ... the fact that it first pumped ok then stopped would point to a blockage at the suction check the inlet in the tank for a blockage check inside the pump for rag or something like that.. make sure there is no tap turned off? If all seems ok on the suction side , rig up an oil supply overhead and feed it into the suction side of the pump that will tell you the pump is working... could have snapped a shaft or picked up foreign material etc.

Just remember any pump will pump air instead of liquid if it can so look for those small airleaks suction side regards Don

..................................................... RESTARTING AN ENGINE AFTER MANY YEARS OF IDLE...

Hi Don , I have a Chamberlain C670 tractor , it has not been going for 10 – 15 years, can you tell me the best way to start it , do I need to drain the diesel or what ?? Hope you can help. Regards Warren Thomson......... -------------------------------------------------------- Hi warren... suggest you drain the fuel completely tank etc... also might pay to change the oil... make sure the engine can turn over ... after replacing fuel and oil bleed the fuel system...fill with water.. then remove the rocker box cover and pour some oil over the rockers and valves. tie down the clutch pedal and using a well charged battery turn the engine over with the fuel pump stop button in the stop position until you see a movement on the oil pressure gauge might only be a flicker. then try starting if it starts ok keep an eye on oil pressure if it doesnt want to start give it via the air intake a shot of ether airostart if still no joy... remove injectors and squirt via an oil can about 2 tablespoons full of oil into each cylinder replace injectors, if engine was running ok before and now it will not start the cause can be stuck valves, very dry piston rings and or fuel injectors blocked… things like that cheers don


I Have a Lanz 15/30 1930. I was wondering when i refill the lubricating oil system what is the best way to stop this system from airlocking? Also I was wondering would you know where I would get an oscillating rod which drives the fuel pump and the oiler? Also with regard to the manual for the hotbulbs, does it go into full detail on repairing the engine, gearbox and fueling system?

Regards, Paddy........................................

Hi Paddy not sure what you mean?... you should never let the oil tank to run empty and the correct oil is s.a.e 10 which is hard to find these days as such so use the thinnest oil around if an airlock happens can only suggest you crack a union closest to the pump... sadly have no connections for parts but they are around Try ebay in the UK or Germany or take the old one to someone who could probably make you one.... Yes the manual i have is more or less what is now called a workshop manual regards don .........................................................


Hi Don, I am having a problem with oil disappearing from hydraulics or differential - I think it is leaking into the gearbox. How would I go about fixing this? Also the hydraulics are not positioning - if the lever is touched it lifts upwards.

Please help.

Regards John Cheers


Hi John... dont quite follow what you mean by disappearing.... the pump that supplies oil to you three point linkage is in the transmission case along with the differential... If you mean oil is leaving this area and going into the gearbox section, then that means the oil seals between the two components are leaking usually because the associated bearing /bearings at the oil seal are worn... To repair this you need to split the tractor at the section of diff housing and gearbox housing... If you are not a a reasonable good mechanic you will need a workshop manual, otherwise you will run into many problems. with your control selector it could be because the oil has air in it? but more likely out of adjustment due to wear. a suitable manual can be found on my website. hope this is of help regards Don ...........................................................

9G BATTERY CONNECTIONS Hi Don Could you tell me how a battery on a G9 is hooked up? It has a generator, is it positive or negative to earth? ... Hi Jenny...normal is negative earth with generators after you have connected the wires and battery and with the engine stopped just flick the cut out points together this will change the generator polarity the cut out is in the voltage regulator a bit separate from the voltage regulators has a set of contact points only flick so you see a spark hope this helps regards don .............................................................


Hi Don

I have recently purchased a 354 in good condition.

The tractor has a 12 volt electrical system (alternator, starter motor , globes etc) and currently has a 12 volt battery.

The battery is flat just through lack of use as far as I know.

Rather that re charging the battery I want to buy a new one.

I understand that originally these tractors were a 12 volt system with the battery being a 12 volt unit coming as 2 x 6 volt, 21 plate batteries linked together to provide 12 volts. (or at least the 306 did so I presume it was the same with the 354).

Is they any problem in just putting a heavy duty 12 volt battery in this 354.

I would very much appreciate your advice .


Graeme Roberts

............................................................... Hi Graeme It is pretty hard to source 6 volt batteries these days.the reason back then was 1# 6 volt batteries were still used a lot. 2# 12 volt batteries in heavy duty types didnt exist. So the answer is Yes a truck type 12 volt battery is ideal..The perkins 306-354 being cold start glow plugs are easy on batteries regards don ...............................................................


Hi Don.

I am 19 and into vintage tractors. I now have a Nuffield Universal, a MF 210 ( rare little 2 cylinder) and I have just got myself 2 chamberlain 306”s.

Can you tell me please.

1/ Will the Power steering from them interchange, as the good 306 has a F/end loader but no power steering.But the old rusty 306 has power steering and a pro-line digger.

2/ The valve clearance of the 306, as I wish to give her a good going over ?

Thanks for you help..

Ashley .......................................................

Hi Ashley would suggest you look at a workshop manual?... cannot see any real problems in the steering change over. ........................................................

Cheers mate,

I did find a mate who has both the original operator’s book and a parts book, so I was able to follow the wiring harness out of them.

I’ve done a bit more research into changing the power steering over because this one has factory fitted power steering, It turns out the head of the vane type hydraulic pump houses the priority valve and its just a matter of swapping the hydraulic pumps.

Cheers Ashley


LEAKING POWER STEERING RAM.. ...................................................... Hi Don,

The steering ram began to leak a while ago, but is now leaking badly. I am having problems finding seals for it. I have seen other tractors where the steering ram has been replaced with the flow controller mounted on the steering wheel. This seems to be a lot of trouble to go to when all that is needed is a few seals. ................................................................

hI Andy suggest you take your ram to a hydraulics repairer/supplier... they should be able to work out what is required to repair your ram... normally its just a few seals and or a bushing. ... you could do it yourself dismantle and take worn parts so they can identify same. regards don .............................................................. ......................................................... ............................................................ Hello

I am having problems starting a Lanz 1306 with a twn engine Problem - Having rebored the engine and fitted new piston and rings, rebuilt injector pump and injector I still have no fire not even smoke Any ideas on how to rectify the problem

Regards and thanks

Oct 24 (1 day ago)

to John

Hi John... first the obvious... Is it getting Fuel.?.. and very important is it hot enough? Dont know what you are using for fuel, but if it is not the old Diesel fuel try distillate with say 1% of oil added... The hot bulb needs to be glowing a dull red to be hot enough...if both of these are right and your injection timing is right it should fire up... get back to me if you are still having a problem cheers don

Hi, i have a 1937 P Model Lanz Bulldog which runs pretty good but i have seen some at tractor pulls that pull extremely good how can i get mine to pull like these any help and advise would be very welcome many thanks Colin

Oct 24 (1 day ago)

to colin

Hi Colin... go back to the good old days... try this ....NOTE YOU NEED 2 people DO NOT TRY ON YOUR OWN A FEW GOT KILLED DOING THIS...take the tractor out into the paddock and attach a good heavy load, then with one bloke driving the other walks backwards in front of the tractor as it is working hard and turns the injector control valve in or out until you get the best result... this use to be done to always suit the load... cheers Don

Adjust PTO on a Chamberlain C670

Hi Don, Have read all the info about adjusting with a hammer and screw driver after taking the top nut off BUT where is the locking nut??? Have a manual I bought but it is not clear and no actual picture. Can you please help.

Bas Thanks Don Perhaps I should explain. Have connected rotary hoe to pto as soon as I lower blades they will not dig despite being in engaged position. Reading manual I thought some adjustment was required but manual is vague. Picture of pto will send tomorrow but it is c670 hi again , If it is engaged then the clutch plates are slipping that is if the shaft is turning when not attached to anything , just make sure the hoe is free to turn as if it is stuck the pto will not turn. Only difference with a C6100 and the 6c70 is horsepower rest is the same regards Don Thanks Don So how do I adjust? Manual shows a screw driver inserted into plug hole above fork. Pg M-3 Fig M3 What I can't determine is what is being adjusted. When I look into plug hole and pto is engaged fork seems short of reaching over ridge along shaft. Is that is what is supposed to happen? Bas Don Have worked it out Page M-5 Fig M8 Shows lock nut I ll try that. Then if no difference probably have to pull apart. Thanks for your patience Bas Hi Basil i would say you loosen the nut then adjust what it is on then tighten up the locknut... I do not have the page on hand... email it to me and then I can tell you for sure regards don

Hello, I have an old Ford 601 Workmaster 4 Cylinder Diesel that was dumping fuel into oil pan a few months ago. Since I know just about nothing about tractors and even less about diesels it took me awhile to diagnose that I had a bad injector. After getting the bad injector rebuilt and the rest cleaned and new seals put on them....I reinstalled the injectors and it fired right up. The problem is that now it has no power at all. It wont even go into any other gear than low let alone bush hog or pull a spreader. it is also putting out an unusual amount of white or possibly blue smoke (I hate to try to guess at color).......any and all thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thank You.

Hi Johnathon. I assume you did nothing at all with the fuel pump or the timing of same? If you did then that could be the problem. If not then it sounds to me much like low compression. Again I assume you changed the engine oil? Badly leaking injectors will dribble fuel into the cylinders and this will wash the oil from the rings and end up in the sump. but to the extent you mention I would point the finger to the lift pump leaking diesel fuel into the sump. Very thin or diluted oil in an old engine will show up as very poor compression.

What I suggest you do is first remove the lift pump and get a kit for it or get it serviced. Then change the oil to one something like a straight 50/60 sae engine oil made for worn engines, if only multi grades are available then add one of those oil thickeners that are available for worn engines. then run the engine at a fast idle until the oil has a chance to increase compression..... Note although many mechanics frown on oil thickeners, they do work , they will not repair a worn engine but they will allow many more hours of work.

Note diesel smoke is ... White fuel not burnt....Black too much fuel going into an engine and rpm too low to take advantage of it.... blue burning engine oil. cheers don


I have a Massey Harris 33 that I think is a 1952 to 55, I have a problem with the motor, between number 2 and 3 plug are fouling up very bad, can you tell me what the compression is on that engine and what can I check for to fix this, the compression now checks at 100 psi on the four cylinders. Thank you. Paul Furlotte

Hi Paul a good engine would be around 130 psi But remember these engines were only around 6.5 to 1 I assume yours is a side valve engine? I suggest pull out all plugs pour into each plug hole about a table spoon full of oil then with the throttle held open do a compression test again... if it climbed up above the 100psi mark then you have wear in the bore, rings etc and or valves not seating well... but if all the cylinders are much the same then the problem you have is not from compression More likely a poor spark either the plugs are wrong or dead... or the magneto output is poor on those 2 cylinders or if it has coil ignition look hard at the distributor pionts and cap. Are you sure the leads to 2 & 3 are not crossed? Also look for a partial blockage in the manifold , or cracks etc to those two cylinders as it looks if the spark is ok they are running very rich... or the outer two cylinders are very lean and the carby has been adjusted to compensate. let me know how you make out regards Don


hi, any help appreciated..............i had a fuel pump rebuilt off a ford 3910 3 cylinder, marked the timing, got it back and got it on and it is not pumping any fuel out of the 3 lines, getting plenty of fuel to the pump and have bled the bleeders,

Hi most likely you have an air leak on the suction side, this can show even if fuel comes out the bleeders but first things first 1# check that the stop lever is not stuck in the stop position on the pump. 2# to check if there is an air leak is simple enough ... place a clean can of fuel above the pump and run a plastic hose directly to the in put side of the pump, bypassing filters etc (important that the can is clean and the fuel) then bleed the pump, turn engine over with injector nuts loose at injectors , when fuel starts to spit out close loose nuts. If it runs then look for air leaks at the filter or the lines from and to the filter. if this doesnt work then there is a small chance the metering valve is stuck within the pump , only a possible. if this looks like the fault then take the pump back to the persons who rebuilt it., they can put it on the bench and show you that it is or is not working regards don of course check the obvious ... that the pump is rotating and timing is correct.

By the way readers if you are about to remove an injector pump on a more modern engine such as many in the 2000- and on years, check if you have to LOCK the pump before removal,without doing this you will lose the timing, which can only be reset at a great cost...

TRACTOR ENGINE SEIZED UP Hi I was just wondering if you could please help we have just bought an old tractor universal 650M farmliner and was told it was running 2 years ago, since then he has tried to start it and it just turned over he thought that it only needed to be bled. We have got it home today and bled the pump through to the injectors, hooked up a new battery , starter motor engages but will not turn over motor so tried to clutch start in all gears on gravel driveway and the wheels just lock up. Spoke to car mechanic and he said to put a bit of wd40 down each injector incase rings were locked in bore, also tried to put a socket and bar on the main crank pulley but there wasn’t enough room to put it on, Do you please have any idea as to where to go from here keep clutching or pull radiator out to try to get to main pulley etc. Any info would be great.

Cheers Anthony

Hi Anthony sounds like the engine is seized... not necessarily a damaging seizure... but from just in not use. water has got down via the exhaust locking up valves and or rings.

first make sure you have plenty of oil in the crankcase, if so drain out about a liter into a glass jar, being a diesel the oil will be black then pour this oil slowly over say a pane of glass or something like a sheet of metal painted white to see if there are any metal filings in the oil?\(will also tell you if water has got into the engine.)

This is just to make sure a bearing has not run on a crankshaft journal because if it has then you will not be able to turn the crank over without dismantling. If no water or metal? Then first remove all the injectors , then remove the starter motor and with a strong lever try to rock the engine backwards or forwards by levering on the ring gear on the flywheel. if you cannot move it that way you for sure will not by turning the crank at the front. When removing the injectors look for one or more that have rust on them, if they have then it is most likely water has got down via exhaust/manifold, past valves into the cylinder.

But do not despair if all has failed by the time you have done all this then ... carry on with this pour diesel fuel or kerosene into each cylinder via the hole where the injector came out each right up so that the manifolds are full to. then leave for a couple of days, then try via the starter hole to move the engine back a forth if it starts to move then keep it moving until you have done two revolutions you can the try with the starter motor, if it can turn it then it will push out all the kero you put in . once it is free then remove the rocker box cover and while turning the engine make sure all valves are opening etc As an after thought if you manage to turn the engine a certain amount but then it stops, look for stuck valves. If any are stuck open then the piston will hit them so you need to remove the rocker shaft and prise the stuck valve/valves back up, if they persist in being stuck you will have to remove the head to free them.

Just remember you will not be able to turn an engine over with valves stuck open.

Also trying to start a tractor by towing is nearly always a wast of time ... the gear ratio between the engine and the final drive even if you are in top gear means the engine turns over about 100 times at least for one turn of your axle. hope this is of help regards don

Hi Don would just like to say a huge thank you did what you said and low and behold managed to turn the motor over by hand then put starter motor back in to pump out the diesel, put everything back together. Started to bled the system with hand pump come through the 2 filters back into the injector pump and as pumping could hear it going back out the return line back to the diesel tank could not get it to come out of any of the 4 injector lines on top of the injector pump. Have been told that the way to kill the motor is to push the hand throttle lever all the way forward, so obviously trying to start at half throttle but won’t start even with ether into air filter.

Started to think maybe the kill mechanism in the injector pump possibly stuck.

Had wife turning over cracked all 4 injector lines on top of pump small amount of diesel coming out then cracked the lines at the injectors and diesel coming out but still not firing, motor turning over freely but only puffing smoke and put ether straight into air intake, starter motor seems fine, had good battery motor turning over freely but will not fire, any suggestions from here would be great I am at a loss we were told not to engage the PTO while starting is there anything else you could think of. Thanks for your time

To prove if the fuel pump is not working or the fuel pump timing is wrong .... Turn engine over fast with everything connected as it should be and once rotating squirt small shots of areostart into the air cleaner... if the amount of ether ( note only small quantities at a time) is fed in... the engine can run just on ether alone without using the fuel pump at all, if it does that then you have timing or fuel pump problems. To check the fuel pump again remove all injectors , then put one injector on a any injector pipe and turn engine over ... (DO NOT AIM IT ONTO YOU BODY IN ANYWAY IT CAN ENTER YOUR SKIN EASILY) a fine spray at an angle 2 or more will be visible in a spurt every 2 revolutions that is if the pump is working and the injector is too... if nothing change an injector , if still nothing the pump is not working ... could be that it is not rotating ? remove timing cover and check to see if the gear is rotating the pump shaft... come back when you have gone this far i may be able to tell you what next? cheers don

1974 international 354 tractor

Recently our power steering stopped working so we had the power steering booster cylinder repaired but it still is not working. What else should I look at? Hi Jayne If there is no assistance at all from the cylinder then look at the pump output?, if that seems satisfactory then look at the steering control... make sure you have all hoses connected correctly... you could try this, with engine stopped remove both hoses from the cylinder place in a bucket , start engine there should be no oil coming out of the hoses, turn briefly sat to the left and watch which hose spurts oil. then check the other by turning to the right ... stop engine and connect each hose to the cylinder in such a way that the pressure will move the piston in the right direction being the way you want the wheel to go. I f all that seems ok you will need to tap in a pressure gauge that read to at least 1000 psi and see what pressure you have ... check the pump first then the actual steering control hope this is of help regards don

JD model...1

Hi Don,

Not sure if you still answer these type questions but here goes. I bought a 1943 john deere model l with the Hercules engine. When driving it home I soon realized there was no water in the radiator. ( the farmer was trying to start it so I assumed it had water) It wasn’t long before I turned it off. I soon began to tear it down and found some water dripping from the two exhaust ports with the head still, on as well as the plugs were wet with water. Could this be simply the head gasket or something more? The oil looks fine and so does the head gasket. I did not see white smoke but the power was not there when going up a hill. Thanks for any help you may have.

Hi Goslee I assume your Hercules engine is a Side-valve engine.? Even if it is not ... most likely a head gasket. If you boiled it dry you could have cracked head now... a good indication as to which cylinders have a problem is water will make the valve heads the piston and the spark plug clean in comparison to cylinders not affect hope this help regards don

super dexta fuel issues

Hello I am looking for a bit of help with my old ford super dexta. It was running fine when I parked it about three weeks ago but when I wanted to use it a few days back it would not fire up. I have had a few issues in the past with rust in the tank so first thing I did was clean up the filter in the tank that did not really seem to be that bad. I bled the lines as I have done in the past (filter on top then fuel pump on front then injector lines) but still at the injectors when I crack the line I get very little to nothing coming out. If I give it a shot of fuel from a hand spray bottle in the intake it fires up until fuel is exhausted. The pump was rebuild about 6 years back and really has few hours on it since...any help would be grateful. Dave

Hi Dave. I assume your tractor has a lift pump?

If so that could be a reason... Even if it works when hand priming doesnt necessarily mean it is working driven by the engine? A quick way to check is place a drum of fuel on the bonnet and feed fuel to the main pump , then bleed until no air is coming out ... if the engine runs then its your filter, or you lift pump or the lines etc to the tank. If not then it is the pump itself or /and the injectors... another thought is make sure the fuel pump timing has not slipped and the actual fuel is not really old? hope this is of help Don

Hi Don, I hope you can help me ! My Fordson power major overheated and then smoked from the crankcase breather and rocker box, so i removed the head and found that no. 2 piston had two little burrs on the top edge, but no marks to indicate a broken ring on top of the piston. I found the old valve stem seals all tight on the valve stems but at the top of springs, I expected the new seals to fit tight on to the guides but they are loose as well, is this correct ? Only I can't see what purpose they are serving when they do not fit tightly on both stem and guide. Kind regards, Ivor.

Hi Ivor your valve seals should be a loose fit to the guide and a reasonable tight fit to the valve stem. if not then you have the wrong seal... but there is one type that sits up near the end of the valve stem that acta as a deflecter? much like an unberalla? you may have this type then the center goes up and down with the valve but is free at the bottom. regards don

Hi Don, At the same time that you were sending your reply I was reading that most earlier push rod engines used umbrella type seals to just deflect the oil, but later OHC engines with allot more oil used tight fitting positive seals that leave just a film of oil on the stem. So it looks to me like my problem is broken or sticking rings, and as you know these Majors don't have a removable sump Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr ! Thank you ever so much for your help. That is so typical, I've been looking for information on these seals for days, and then two answers at once !!! All the best, Ivor. P.S. I think i will pour some diesel in the bores and leave to soak before putting the head back, just in case it will free a stuck ring.

hi again when you put the head back on... do a compression test that will at least tell you which cyl or more have a problem... what happens usually if an engine get too hot is the head or block crack in the most severe... cases. less problem is rings get too hot and collapse valves distort etc ... So I suggest before you pull the engine down you try some heavier oil etc as often the rings will return to normal after a time, not so the valves of course regards don

there are oil additives that make oil thicker, so to speak, I would suggest you keep away from modern oils and use a 50 sae grade suited to older engines along with the additive, it will sludge up the engine over time,but in an old engine that will not matter. regards don

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