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If you need info on anything to do with your old tractor , seek advice here, it is free contact

Hi Don,
Hoping you are able to help me with a problem with a Fiat 615 tractor .
Where is the dip stick for the Hydralic fluid and where do you put the fluid in ?
I would be very pleases if you would help me please .
Hi Clyde ...filler plug.... when you are sitting on the seat ... underneath  the seat on the right hand side there is a cover held on by three bolts
 this is the filler plug for the 3 point linkage component... I would imagine the dipstick is underneath this cover/lid...
 hope this was of help regards don.

Hi Don,
was hoping you could advise the best type of oil for the gearbox/hydraulics for my old Nuffield DM4?
Hi Chris... Recommended was Shell Rotella  SAE 30... BP Vanellus SAE 30... so current  equivalent of this type...or any oil recommended for transmission/hydraulics that has anti foaming agents and around 30 SAE... old tractors might benefit with a heavier oil if worn
hope this was of help regards don

Hi Don
Just taken dropped the oil in the diff of this old girl and cannot find a fill up point to replace the oil
Kind Regards
Hi Keith... transmission and final drive would be all in one... most likely 2  drain plugs at lowest pionts  one under the diff the other under the gearbox... takes sae 90 oil.... filling plug  somewhere on the top of the complete housing... not sure but think it takes about 12 litres of oil.
regards don

Hi Don
I am looking for a solution to a problem i am having with my 1969
allis chalmers 160 3 cyl.perkins diesel. As the motor turns over or
runs I hear a thumping air noise coming out of the air cleaner. So I
checked valve function and adjusted clearnces.I also changed a leaking
fuel line .And changed air cleaner.And removed muffler for a test.
NOTHING changed. I need HELP !!! Any ideals

Hi Robert... sounds like one or more inlet valves are not seating ? a damaged valve face or a damaged seat... try this ... give all 3 inlet valves  about 20 thou clearance... run and see if there is a difference, if the sound diminishes then one at a time put the valve clearance back to where it should be... taking note which valve seems to be at fault. remember better to have loose  tappets then those too tight...
if that doesnt help, you could have a cracked head ,at an inlet port area or a leaking head gasket in the same area...
I would say the noise is air being forced back into the inlet manifold  by a piston in one of the cylinders, if that is the case you will need to remove the head to find out. last but not least are you sure the engine is running on all 3 cylinders when idling... check this by one at a time cracking the injector pipe at each injector... could easily be the noise of a cylinder not firing... regards don

Hi we have a 566 DT and want to change the hydraulic oil do you know
how much it takes as we have no manual or dip stick also I saw in your
web site that there is a mesh filter on the pump to clean can you tell
me where to find this, also where do you empty the hydraulic oil ? Are
the gearbox diff and hydraulics all the same oil? Sorry for all the
questions but I'm a little in the dark with no manual do you know
where I could get one ? Thank's KT
Hi Katie.
I would say for sure the transmission & hydraulics were one.
The manual for your tractor can be found under Fiat manuals on my website
covers 4 models yours included regards don


I got a new float and arm for my JD 920 3 cylinder diesel complete with gasket. There are 5 screws that hold in the round plate housing the arm mechanism. One screw hole keeps leaking. Is there a silicone or sealing putty or a teflon tape that can be used with petrol to help seal this screw? I have rotated the screws and the gasket and was thinking of doubling the gasket but didn't really think that would help.
hi kim... you would need to thoroughly clean the area then try loctite gasket cement the blue type.
or if the thread is worn again clean thoroughly  then  fill it with  a epoxy resin  like cold steel and place the  bolt /screw into the compound and before the compound has fully solidified unscrew the bolt so that you leave a female thread in the compound.
 another way to tighten up a worn thread is to  tin the  bolt/screw threads with a layer of solder.
regards don

Im restoring a farmall a and it was set up for fifteen to twenty years would you recommend replacing the springs?
Hi Brandan.... sorry not  sure what you are referring to... The valve Springs perhaps? regards Don
I see... yes the engine valve springs.
 Yes it would be  advisable after so long to replace them,... if the IHC springs are not available  you should tell him to take both an inlet spring and an exhaust spring to  a shop that sells auto parts as you will find a modern spring that will be very much the same... regards and good to know you are all interested in old tractors regards don

Hi don I have a 63 fordson super major I have a superior loader on it  the pump frozed up and the splines are gone in side the pulley  that the splined shaft goes in to i have removed the the nuts  but it fill like some thing else is holding it on  can you help me. thanks bill in california
Hi Bill the pulley on the engine crankshaft is  on a straight shaft with a key woodruff type ... can be tight  on the shaft , you need a gear puller to get it off... usually there are threaded holes in the pulley you can attached the puller to and then you press on the crankshaft end... hope this helps don

Hi, I have a fiat 780 when I bought it it was very smoky and blowing oil out the dipstick. I got the head fully reconditioned and put new rings and shell bearings in it the tractor is still smoky and still blowing oil out the dipstick and it is hard to start. I was told that the timing gear might be wearing/worn, could you give me your opinion if any please. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Tony.
There are two possibles first an obvious one too much oil in the crank case so check you have the right dipstick, if  you are not sure drain the crank case and  replace the correct amount of oil. as per specifications .
The second is the most likely that is crankcase pressure from blow by... first check all breathers are clear usually one on the crank case and another on the rocker box.
run the engine with the rocker box cover removed and  check  blowby coming back up through the oil holes? if it is then  there are two possible 1#  clearance between the cylinders and the piston rings 2#  a leak from one or more cylinders in the head ... blowing back into an oil gallery.
When you say you replaced the rings  are rings gaps spaced properly around the piston, how badly are the pistons and or cylinders worn.Did you check pistons for cracks or broken ring lands... scores in the cylinders etc?
Hard starting  is more likely lack of compression then a worn timing gear train.
A third possible is the valves are they seating correctly ... valve clearance correct, better to be a bit loose then too tight.... worn valves and valve guides are also a possible, were these replaced?

I suggest the following first that crankcase oil is the right type and the correct amount..
Then  do a compression test on each cylinder... the pressure needs to be within 10/15%  of the specified pressure.
If compression is low check for wear on both pistons and cylinders.
 hope this helps regards don

above typical hydraulics layout on a tractor.


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